Hausstock

Hausstock is a 3,158 m peak in the Glarus Alps, rising above the Vorderrhein valley near Breil/Brigels in Graubünden. The cantonal border between Glarus and Graubünden runs along its crest. On the Glarus side it overlooks the Linth and Sernf valleys. Mountaineers and ski tourers have favoured it since the nineteenth century, when British and American climbers made it a well-known objective.

Where is Hausstock?

The mountain belongs to the Glarus Alps, part of the Western Alps. To the east lies Surselva, the upper Rhine valley with Breil/Brigels. On the Glarus side the village of Elm in the Sernftal is the usual starting point. The summit sits at about 46.87° N, 9.07° E.

How do you climb Hausstock?

The normal route follows the east ridge. The Swiss Alpine Club rates it PD, grade 3b, with roughly 1,860 m of ascent and 6 to 7 hours of climbing. Iron bars were fixed on the ridge in 2011 to help with the harder sections.

Most parties split the trip over two days:

• Wichlen near Elm to the Panixer Pass: about 3 hours
• Pass to summit: 3 to 4 hours

The Panixerpasshütte at around 2,407 m offers a bed for the night. It is self-catering, so call ahead to confirm it is open. You can also start from the Graubünden side, in the village of Pigniu (Panix).

An alternative is the traverse via the Ruchi (3,105 m) and the chain-protected Drahtseilfurggeli notch, starting at the Muttseehütte. The SAC grades it PD, I: 3.5 to 5 hours and about 760 m of ascent. You can combine it with a descent along the east ridge.

What is the history behind the mountain?

In 1799 General Alexander Suvorov's Russian army retreated over the neighbouring Panix Pass after fighting the French. The march from Elm cost many soldiers their lives, and today the ViaSuworow hiking route commemorates it. Traders used the pass much earlier: a Habsburg land register from 1303 to 1307 mentions it, and Glarus improved the track in 1550.

When should you go?

Summer climbs work best from July to September, once the snow has melted. In winter and spring the peak draws ski tourers, who use the Skihütte Obererbs. Check the avalanche bulletin and weather forecast before every outing.

Frequently asked questions

Is Hausstock technically difficult? The east ridge is a genuine alpine route at PD level. It requires scrambling experience and comfort on exposed ground, so hire a guide if you lack either.

How long does the climb take? From the Elm side, expect 6 to 7 hours to the top. Sleeping at the Panixer Pass makes it far more manageable.

Where can you stay? Choose the self-catering Panixerpasshütte, the Skihütte Obererbs, or a village base such as Elm or Breil/Brigels.

Can you see Hausstock from Brigels? The massif belongs to the mountain scenery above the Vorderrhein valley in Surselva, though the summit itself stands further southwest on the Glarus border.