Gemsfairenstock

Gemsfairenstock is a summit of roughly 2,970 m (2,972 m in most listings) on the border between the Swiss cantons of Uri and Glarus, in Glarus Süd municipality on the Glarus side. It belongs to the Glarus Alps, lies east of the Klausen Pass, and sits on the ridge running east from the Clariden massif. It is a quiet high-alpine objective that rewards hikers, mountaineers and ski tourers with glacier experience.

Where is Gemsfairenstock exactly?

The peak straddles the Uri–Glarus boundary. Although people often think of it alongside the Urserental and Andermatt, the mountain is classed with the Glarus Alps rather than the Uri Alps proper. A saddle called the Gemsfairenjoch separates it from the Claridenfirn glacier on its southern side. Don't confuse it with other peaks in the region such as Galenstock or Hundstock.

How do you climb it?

The Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) describes several routes, each from a different starting point.

• From the Claridenhütte via the Gemsfairenjoch. A snow route graded F, with about 520 m of ascent and 2 to 2.5 hours of climbing. It has become harder in recent years as perennial snow around the saddle melts away. Early summer is the best window, while winter snow still links the Claridenfirn with the saddle.
• From the Fisetenpass via the Langfirn. The normal route, graded PD, taking 3 to 4 hours. The Langfirn has thinned so much that the summit can be reached without stepping onto the glacier. The path is waymarked in blue and white and rated T4.
• From Fisetengrat (cable car) over the summit to the Claridenhütte. A PD+ ski tour with roughly 850 m of ascent and about 3 hours. From the top you drop down a short, steep south slope to the Gemsfairenjoch and onto the Claridenfirn.
• From the Planurahütte. The longer option, about 5 hours and 1,350 m of climbing. In fog, finding your way across the Claridenfirn is difficult.

When should you go?

Summer and early summer suit hikers and alpinists, while spring brings ski tourers when snow cover is good. Weather changes quickly here, and fog on the glacier can erase visibility, so pick a stable forecast window.

What gear do you need?

On the Claridenfirn routes, bring crampons, an ice axe and a rope, and know how to move on a glacier. The Fisetenpass variant avoids the ice, so standard equipment for demanding mountain trails is enough, though crampons help on firm morning snow.

Frequently asked questions

Is Gemsfairenstock in Glarus or Uri?

On the border of both cantons. Glarus Süd municipality covers the Glarus side.

How hard is the ascent?

It depends on the route. The Fisetenpass trail is rated T4, while routes over the Claridenfirn glacier fall into the F and PD grades.

Where can you stay overnight?

At the Claridenhütte SAC (2,453 m), the starting point for the shortest routes, or at the Planurahütte SAC.

Is it a good ski tour?

Yes. The SAC lists several ski routes, including one from Fisetengrat over the summit to the Claridenhütte.