Gross Schärhorn

Gross Schärhorn (3,295 m) is the highest summit of the Schärhorn massif in the Uri Alps, canton of Uri, Switzerland. Its north face looks down on the Schächental valley, home to the village of Unterschächen, while the southeast side drains onto the Hüfifirn glacier. The massif stands close to the Klausen Pass and has two summits: Gross Schärhorn is the higher, Chli Schärhorn the lower.

What kind of mountain is it?

This is a glacier-climbing objective, not a walking trail. Guides and sources list the height as either 3,294 m or 3,295 m. Unterschächen and the Schächental make a handy valley base for the area, but the climb itself starts from a high mountain hut.

How do you reach the summit?

The normal route begins at the Planurahütte SAC (2,947 m) and is graded PD. It crosses the watershed toward the Claridenpass, passes the south side of the Chammlihoren and continues to the Chammlilücke notch. From there you gain the east ridge and finish either along the crest or by a traverse over scree and firn. The SAC route portal gives roughly 3 to 4 hours up over 450 m of ascent and 2.5 to 3.5 hours down.

The alternative starts at the Hüfihütte (2,334 m) and crosses the Hüfifirn to the southeast flank. Its grade runs from L-WS to PD, depending on crevasse conditions. You reach the Hüfihütte by postbus from Amsteg via Bristen, then on foot up the Maderanertal. The two huts are about 3 hours apart.

Ski tourers use the route from the Planurahütte, rated WS (PD). A harder ski line begins at the Klausen Pass and runs over the Griessfirn to the Chammlilücke.

What do you need to bring?

Glacier gear: rope, harness, crampons and ice axe, plus crevasse-rescue skills. Both huts work on reservation, so book your bed ahead, especially at the Hüfihütte. Timing depends strongly on snow, so start early while the surface is frozen and firm.

When is the best time to go?

Summer and early autumn offer open glacier access and steadier high-mountain weather. Spring belongs to ski tourers. Check the forecast for altitudes above 3,000 m before leaving, since wind and cloud can change a day's plan quickly.

What can you see?

The summit gives views over the Hüfifirn and surrounding glaciers, the valleys of Uri and neighbouring 3,000 m peaks. To the north the massif towers over the Schächental, and a glacier basin leads southwest toward the Maderanertal.

Frequently asked questions

How hard is Gross Schärhorn?

The normal route from the Planurahütte is graded PD: moderate alpine difficulty that still involves glacier and ridge travel.

How long does the climb take?

From the Planurahütte, about 3 to 4 hours up and 2.5 to 3.5 hours down. From the Hüfihütte, add the approach to the glacier.

Do I need a guide?

Without glacier experience, go with a mountain guide or an experienced partner.

Where should I start?

For the Hüfihütte, travel from Amsteg via Bristen and the Maderanertal. Unterschächen in the Schächental is a good valley base for other tours and the Klausen Pass.