Tödi

Tödi is the highest mountain of the Glarus Alps, rising above the municipality of Glarus Süd in Switzerland. Its main summit, Piz Russein, stands at 3,614 m and is also the highest point in the canton of Glarus. The massif sits on the border between Glarus to the north and Graubünden to the south, close to where both cantons meet Uri. This is a destination for people with alpine experience rather than casual walkers.

What is Tödi and where is it?

Tödi is a whole massif, not a single peak. Besides Piz Russein it includes Glarner Tödi and the Sandgipfel. In Graubünden it is not the highest point overall, but outside the Bernina range it is the canton's tallest summit. The centre of the massif lies at roughly 46.81° N, 8.91° E. Glaciers wrap the flanks: the Bifertenfirn to the east and the Hüfigletscher to the west.

How do you climb Tödi?

The classic normal route starts from the east. The base is the Fridolinshütte, an SAC hut at around 2,111 m. The valley road from Linthal and Tierfehd is closed to general traffic and used mainly by farmers and hydropower staff, so you usually cover the last stretch on foot.

In summer the path heads toward the Grünhornhütte (about 2,448 m), drops along a fixed cable onto the Bifertenfirn, and crosses the glacier toward the saddle between Piz Russein and Glarner Tödi. The hardest section is often the second icefall at around 2,700 m. The glacier crossing is usually not extreme, but it depends on how open the crevasses are, so you need a rope, crampons, crevasse-rescue skills or a guide. Trip reports put the ascent from the Fridolinshütte at 6 to 7 hours.

Can you ski Tödi?

Yes, the same line is a popular ski tour. The second icefall can be bypassed by the Schneerus couloir. Start early in spring, because the valley below the hut can become avalanche-prone in the afternoon. A single-day ski ascent from Tierfehd is possible, but with about 3,000 vertical metres it is a very big effort.

When should you go?

The summer season on the glacier route generally runs from late spring to early autumn, and ski tours are best planned for spring. Before leaving, check the hut's opening dates, the weather forecast and the current glacier conditions. Starting before dawn lets you be back down before the afternoon warm-up.

What should you bring?

Glacier kit: harness, rope, crampons, ice axe, helmet and first-aid supplies. Book the hut in advance and carry a topographic map plus an offline route on your phone.

FAQ

How high is Tödi? The highest summit, Piz Russein, is 3,614 m above sea level.

Where is Tödi? In Switzerland, on the border of the cantons of Glarus and Graubünden, in the Glarus Alps. Valley access runs through the Linthal area in Glarus Süd.

Can you climb Tödi without a guide? The normal route is not technically extreme, but it crosses a glacier with crevasses and icefalls. Only people with glacier experience should go independently; everyone else should hire a mountain guide.

Where is the best place to start? At the Fridolinshütte. Another option is to overnight at the Grünhornhütte along the approach.