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About this place
Sustenhorn rises to roughly 3,503 m in the Uri Alps, on the border of the cantons of Uri and Bern, above Göschenen and the Susten Pass road. It is a popular first high-alpine objective: the standard route is a short glacier tour that many guides consider suitable for beginners with proper equipment.
Where is the Sustenhorn?
The massif overlooks the Susten Pass, which links the Uri valleys with the Bernese Oberland, and sits above it to the south. Sources quote its height as 3,502 or 3,503 m, so you will see both figures.
How do you climb it?
The normal route starts at the Tierberglihütte (2,797 m). The walk to the hut takes about 2 hours from the Umpol parking area, or 2.5 to 3 hours from Steingletscher. The Tierbergli via ferrata is an alternative way up.
From the hut, head southeast toward the Sustenlimi pass (3,089 m), crossing a steeper glacier step of around 200 m. Then curve northeast, join the ridge near point 3288 and follow it to the top. The Swiss Alpine Club rates the difficulty as moderate and the track is usually well trodden. Allow 3 to 3.5 hours up with about 730 m of ascent, and 1.5 to 2 hours down.
The summit is also reachable from the Voralphütte and Chelenalphütte.
What skills and gear do you need?
Crampons, ice axe, rope and harness are required. In some summers crevasses are a real problem, so crevasse-rescue skills are essential. Beginners should hire a mountain guide. An early start avoids soft snow later in the day.
When should you go?
The season runs from June or July to September. In spring the normal route is also a ski-touring objective.
A little history
The first recorded ascent took place in 1841, by Gottlieb Studer with Johann and Heinrich von Weissenfluh.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Sustenhorn difficult?
The SAC calls it moderate, but it is still a glacier tour that demands equipment and roped travel experience.
Where do I start?
At Steingletscher or the Umpol parking area on the Susten Pass road, then walk to the Tierberglihütte.
How long does the climb take?
About 8.5 hours in total for the day tour: roughly 2 hours to the hut, 2.5 to 3.5 hours to the summit, then the descent.
Do I need to stay at the hut?
No, but a night at the Tierberglihütte makes an early start easier and is recommended.
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