Mont Vélan

Mont Velàn (French: Mont Vélan) is a Pennine Alps summit rising above the Italian village of Ollomont in the Aosta Valley. The Italy–Switzerland border runs over its top, and sources give its height between 3,722 and 3,734 m. It is the highest peak between the Great St Bernard Pass and the Grand Combin.

Where is Mont Velàn?

The mountain sits on the main Pennine ridge. On the Italian side it drops toward the Ollomont valley, a side branch of the Valpelline in the Aosta Valley. On the Swiss side, in the canton of Valais, it falls toward Bourg-Saint-Pierre. Two large glaciers cover the northern flanks: Tseudet to the west and Valsorey to the east. The Proz glacier on the west side was used on the first ascent.

How do you reach it from Italy?

The valley road ends at the hamlet of Glacier above Ollomont, where a car park sits at roughly 1,550 m. A yellow-marked path leads north across the By pastures to the Bivacco Rosazza (also called Savoie), a hut rebuilt in 2004 at about 2,650 m. Allow 3 to 4 hours. The bivouac is unstaffed, sleeps around 16 to 20 people and belongs to the Valpelline mountain guides' society.

What is the climb like?

The Italian normal route heads from the bivouac toward the Col de Valsorey (3,107 m), then crosses Mont Cordine (3,323 m), the Doigt de Velan and the Capucin to the summit ridge. Grade is PD: some rock up to II and a short snow or ice pitch at about 45 degrees. This is a proper alpine outing needing helmet, ice axe and crampons, plus glacier skills, as crevasses and seracs are present.

On the Swiss side the classic route starts at the Cabane du Vélan (2,642 m), 3 to 4 hours from Bourg-Saint-Pierre. From there you cross the Tseudet glacier, climb to the chained Col de la Gouille, descend steep rock onto the Valsorey glacier and finish up the east flank. Count 4.5 to 5 hours up. In winter the mountain is also a ski-touring objective.

When should you go?

Summer and early autumn are the climbing season, when the bivouac and trails are clear of snow. Start before dawn to avoid soft snow and afternoon storms. Check conditions with the Valpelline guides or the guides' office in Aosta.

Frequently asked questions

Is Mont Velàn in Italy or Switzerland? Both: the border crosses the summit. Ollomont and Bivacco Rosazza are on the Italian side, Bourg-Saint-Pierre and Cabane du Vélan on the Swiss side.

Do you need a guide? Not formally, but the route crosses a glacier, so climbers without high-mountain experience should hire one.

How long is the walk to Bivacco Rosazza? About 3 to 4 hours from the car park at Glacier.

How hard is the ascent? Alpine grade PD, with short rock climbing to II and a snow or ice section.