Mont Gelé

Mont Gelé (3,518 m) is a peak of the Pennine Alps above the Val de Bagnes, standing on the ridge that separates Switzerland's Valais from Italy's Aosta Valley. The French name means "frozen mountain". Don't confuse it with the other Mont Gelé, about 3,023 m, which overlooks Verbier. This page covers the taller summit on the Italian border.

Where is Mont Gelé?

The massif rises between the Swiss Bagnes valley and the Italian Valpelline. To the west lies the Fenêtre de Durand pass, linking the Fionnay area with Valpelline, while the Col Fenêtre and the Col de Crête Sèche flank the mountain on either side. It is a mountaineering objective: no lift and no walking trail reaches the top.

How do you climb Mont Gelé?

Two main approaches start on the Italian side and meet at the Colle del Mont Gelé (around 3,180 m).

• From Rifugio Crête Sèche (2,410 m). The road ends at Alpe Berrier (about 2,190 m); from there Alta Via 3 leads to the hut. Beyond it the route passes Bivacco Spataro and crosses the Plan de la Sabla plateau. The steep snow or ice slope near Plan Plat is usually the crux. This is the normal route, with low technical difficulty, and it suits summer ascents best.
• From Bivacco Regondi-Gavazzi (about 2,600 m). It starts at Glassier, the last hamlet of Ollomont. The route is longer and more involved, and late June is recommended while snow still covers the approach.

On the Swiss side, parties usually set out from the Cabane de Chanrion (2,462 m), roughly 3.5 hours on foot from the Mauvoisin dam.

What gear do you need?

The final section crosses the Mont Gelé glacier, which has been shrinking fast. Carry crampons and an ice axe, and a rope when conditions are poor. Because the ice keeps retreating, ask the hut keepers about current conditions before you set out. In winter and spring the mountain is a ski-touring objective.

When should you go?

July to September is the best window, once the approaches are clear of snow and the huts are open. Rifugio Crête Sèche has about 88 places and booking is required.

Frequently asked questions

How high is Mont Gelé?

Sources give 3,518 or 3,519 m.

Is it the same peak as the one above Verbier?

No. The Verbier Mont Gelé is around 3,023 m and lies wholly in Switzerland. The peak described here sits on the Italian border.

Can I climb it without a guide?

The normal route is technically easy, but it needs glacier experience and equipment. Without those skills, hire a guide.

Where can I stay overnight?

Rifugio Crête Sèche and Bivacco Regondi-Gavazzi on the Italian side, or the Cabane de Chanrion on the Swiss side.