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Bec d'Epicoune

Bionaz, Switzerland

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About this place

Bec d'Epicoune is a high peak of the Pennine Alps rising on the Italian-Swiss border above the Valpelline valley, close to Bionaz in Italy's Aosta Valley. It stands at roughly 3,530 m and is also known as Becca Rayette. This is mountaineering terrain rather than a walkers' summit, but the valleys beneath it make a rewarding base for exploring.

Where is Bec d'Epicoune?

The mountain sits on the main crest dividing the Aosta Valley from Switzerland's Valais canton. Its northern side drops toward the Otemma Glacier, on the Swiss side. To the south lie the side valleys of Valpelline, with Bionaz the nearest settlement. On the Swisstopo map the name Becca Rayette belongs to a 3,432 m sub-peak on the south-west spur, next to the 3,320 m Col de la Rayette. Along the east-north-east ridge you find Becca Picion (3,389 m) and then the 3,233 m Col d'Epicoune.

Who made the first ascent?

The first recorded climb took place on 21 July 1866, by Johann Jakob Weilenmann and Joseph Gillioz. Since then climbers have used several lines, including the south ridge and a traverse that starts at Ruz and crosses Crête Sèche.

How do you get to the area?

Start in Bionaz, the last sizeable village in the upper Valpelline. The road continues to the Place Moulin dam and lake (about 1,950 m), where the high-mountain trails begin. A well-known hike from here leads to the Col Collon, a pass linking Valpelline with Switzerland's Val d'Hérens. Allow about 8 hours round trip with around 1,140 m of ascent; the route passes the Nacamuli hut at 2,818 m. Lower down, roughly an hour's walk from the dam, the Prarayer hut (2,005 m) is open from about April to September.

What is the climb like?

Bec d'Epicoune is a glaciated alpine objective. Routes call for crampons, an ice axe and solid mountain skills. Ski-mountaineering reports describe a steep, exposed final section on the ridge and rope descents. Approaches often lack marked paths, and the last stretches follow steep snow-filled gullies.

When should you go?

Hikers do best from July to September, when the huts are staffed and trails are clear of snow. Ski mountaineers generally pick spring. Check the forecast and current conditions before setting out, because weather at this altitude changes fast.

Frequently asked questions

Is Bec d'Epicoune in Italy or Switzerland? It sits on the border. The north face looks onto Switzerland's Otemma Glacier, while the southern slopes descend toward Valpelline in the Aosta Valley.

Is it the same as Becca Rayette? The names are sometimes used interchangeably, but on the Swisstopo map Becca Rayette is a 3,432 m sub-peak on the south-west spur, not the main summit.

Can a beginner climb it? No. It is a high-alpine route needing glacier gear and experience; if in doubt, hire a mountain guide.

Where should I start a walk in the area? In Bionaz at Lake Place Moulin. Easier trails lead from there to the Prarayer and Nacamuli huts and on to the Col Collon.

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