Monastery of Celas

The Monastery of Celas (Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Celas) is a former Cistercian nunnery in the Celas district of Coimbra, Portugal, east of the city centre. Its main draw is a cloister with sculpted column capitals, regarded as one of the finest in the country.

Who founded the monastery, and when?

The founder was Infanta Sancha, a daughter of King Sancho I. Most sources give 1221, while some point to around 1213. At the time the site lay outside Coimbra's walls. The first community was made up of nuns brought from Lorvão and Alenquer, and by the late 16th century about a hundred sisters lived here.

What happened to the community?

The 1834 reform dissolved religious orders in Portugal, yet the nuns were allowed to stay until the last one died. That happened on 15 April 1883, and the house closed for good. The building later served several purposes, including a period as a sanatorium. Today it is a public heritage site that visitors can tour.

What will you see?

• The cloister. The south and west galleries date from the 14th century. Round arches rest on slender paired columns, and the capitals carry figurative scenes, an unusual feature in Portugal. The style sits between Romanesque and Gothic.
• The church. Look for the 16th-century portal. The interior reflects rebuilding work from the 16th and 18th centuries.
• The monastic buildings. Little of the original Cistercian fabric survives after extensive remodelling, so the cloister is the oldest and clearest part of the complex.

The monastery has been a National Monument (Monumento Nacional) since a decree of 16 June 1910, and a special protection zone has surrounded it since 2011.

How do you get to the Monastery of Celas?

It stands in Celas, roughly 2 km from Coimbra's historic centre. You can walk from downtown in around fifteen minutes, or take a city bus or taxi. The neighbourhood is residential and quiet, far from the crowds around the university hilltop.

When is the best time to visit?

Spring and early autumn are the most comfortable seasons, as July and August can be hot. Morning or late-afternoon light shows the carved capitals to best effect. Check opening hours and ticket details on the Coimbra city website before you go, since they change with the season and events.

Frequently asked questions

Is this the same as Santa Clara-a-Velha? No. Santa Clara-a-Velha and Santa Clara-a-Nova are across the Mondego River, and Santa Cruz is downtown. Celas is a separate Cistercian nunnery in the east of the city.

How long should I allow? About an hour covers the cloister and church. The visit pairs easily with a walk to the Botanical Garden or the university.

Is the whole building original? No. Rebuilding in the 16th and 18th centuries altered much of it. The oldest surviving part is the 14th-century cloister.

What else is nearby? The old town with the University of Coimbra, the Old Cathedral, and the ruins of Santa Clara-a-Velha by the river.