Hohberghorn

Hohberghorn (4,219 m) is a 4,000-metre peak in the Pennine Alps of Valais, rising above the Mattertal near St. Niklaus. It belongs to the Mischabel massif and sits at the northern end of the Nadelgrat ridge, north of the Dom. Stecknadelhorn is its neighbour along the crest, Saas-Fee lies over the ridge to the east, and the Riedgletscher and Hohberggletscher flank its slopes.

What is the Hohberghorn known for?

The mountain is one link in the Nadelgrat, among the most celebrated high-altitude traverses in the Alps. Its four main summits above 4,000 m (Dürrenhorn, Hohberghorn, Stecknadelhorn and Nadelhorn) are usually climbed in a single outing. Locally the name also appears as Hobärghorn. This is no walker's peak: it is a glacier and mixed-terrain climb that calls for experience and proper equipment.

Who first climbed it?

R. B. Heathcote made the first ascent in August 1869 with guides Franz Biner, Peter Perren and Peter Taugwalder, going up the west couloir. In 1910 O. K. Williamson, Heinrich Fuchs and guide Franz Lochmatter were first up the north-east face, a route still regarded as technically demanding.

How do you climb it?

Two approaches are common:

• From the Mattertal side: start at Gasenried and follow a trail through larch forest to the Bordierhütte (2,886 m). From there the way to the summit via the Hohbergjoch or Dürrenjoch is graded about II on snow and ice, roughly 1.5 hours and 300 m of ascent.
• From the Saas-Fee side: leave the Mischabelhütte and take the north ridge via the Dürrenjoch, rated ZS by Saas-Fee. The Domhütte also serves as a base.

Zermatt classes the peak as difficult and advises going with a mountain guide. A full Nadelgrat traverse is long and demands strong fitness.

What can you see from the top?

The summit looks across the neighbouring Mischabel four-thousanders, including the Dom, and down into the Mattertal and Saastal on either side of the ridge. On a clear day the view takes in glaciers and crests across the Pennine Alps.

When should you go?

The high-mountain season runs from July to September, when glacier and ridge conditions are most settled. Start at dawn: afternoon weather turns quickly and the snow softens. Ask at the hut or your guide about current conditions before setting out.

Frequently asked questions

How high is the Hohberghorn? It stands at 4,219 m (some sources give 4,218 m) and counts among the Alpine four-thousanders.

Can you climb it without a guide? The route needs glacier skills, mixed-terrain experience and mountaineering gear. Beginners should hire a certified IFMGA guide.

Which hut is the best starting point? Choose the Bordierhütte from the Mattertal side, or the Mischabelhütte from Saas-Fee.

Is it the same as the Ulrichshorn? No. The Ulrichshorn is a separate summit on the same Mischabel range, on a neighbouring ridge.