Ulrichshorn

Ulrichshorn is a 3,925 m peak (the SAC lists 3,924 m) in the Swiss Pennine Alps, in the canton of Valais, reached from the St. Niklaus and Saas-Fee side. It belongs to the Mischabel group, which fills the space between the Mattertal and the Saastal, and it sits just north of the Nadelhorn at the northern end of the Nadelgrat ridge. Among the high summits of the area it is one of the gentler ones: a glacier outing for people with alpine experience rather than a technical climb.

Where is the Ulrichshorn?

The mountain rises above Saas-Fee, with the Riedgletscher and Hohbalmgletscher on its flanks. The Nadelhorn lies to the south and the Balfrin to the north. Do not confuse it with the Hohberghorn, a separate peak on the same ridge system.

How do you climb it?

Two classic routes exist, both graded easy (G 2 in the SummitPost description):

• From the Mischabelhütte via the Windjoch pass and the southwest ridge. From the pass it is about 30 minutes and 80 m of ascent; from the hut, roughly 2 hours in total.
• From the Bordierhütte via the Riedpass and the north ridge. Around an hour and 460 m of climbing from the pass, about 3.5 hours from the hut.

Both lines run over snow and firn, so crampons, ice axe, rope and glacier skills are needed. Many climbers add the summit to a bigger day: after the Nadelhorn, coming down over the Windjoch, or as part of a Balfrin-Ulrichshorn traverse. The SAC route portal rates the traverse from the Bordierhütte over Balfrin and Ulrichshorn to the Mischabelhütte at PD, with about 5-6 hours of ascent and 1,300 m of climbing.

What can you see from the top?

A bench stands on the summit, facing the glaciers and ridges of the Mischabel and the Saas and Matter valleys. The view takes in the neighbouring 4,000 m peaks of the Nadelgrat: Nadelhorn, Stecknadelhorn and Lenzspitze.

When should you go?

The high-mountain season usually runs from July to September, when the huts are staffed and glacier snow is stable. Check glacier conditions and hut opening dates with the SAC or the huts themselves before you set out. Start at night or at dawn, since the snow softens in the afternoon.

Frequently asked questions

Is the Ulrichshorn difficult?

Technically easy (G 2, PD on longer traverses), but it is glacier terrain and requires roped travel experience.

Which hut is the easier starting point?

The Mischabelhütte: about 2 hours to the top, with a short section over the Windjoch.

Can I combine it with the Nadelhorn?

Yes, it is a common pairing: the Nadelhorn by its normal route, then down over the Windjoch and a short climb to the Ulrichshorn.

Is it the same as the Hohberghorn?

No. The Hohberghorn is a different, higher peak on the Nadelgrat with its own routes.