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About this place
Rimpfischhorn is a 4,199 m peak rising above the Saas Valley near Saas-Almagell in the Swiss canton of Valais. Part of the Pennine Alps and the Allalin group, it sits between Saas-Fee and Zermatt. A jagged rocky crest with several prongs separates the Mellich glacier from the Allalin glacier.
Where is the Rimpfischhorn and what does it look like?
The mountain lies south of the Allalinhorn, not far from the Italian border. Seen from the Saas side, it stands out for its rugged, broken outline, and its north ridge carries a well-known rock tower called the Grosser Gendarm. Glaciers surround it, including the Allalingletscher and the Habelgletscher. This is a mountaineer's objective, not a walker's summit.
Who first climbed it?
The first ascent took place on 9 September 1859 by Leslie Stephen and Robert Liveing, with guides usually named as Melchior Anderegg and Johann Zumtaugwald. Sources differ slightly on the exact party and route details, but the year and the guided climb are well documented.
How do you climb the Rimpfischhorn?
You need high-alpine experience, glacier equipment and ideally a mountain guide.
- From the Britanniahütte (SAC normal route): the west flank, graded PD, crossing the Allalin glacier and the Allalin Pass, then the Mellich glacier to the Rimpfischsattel. SAC lists 6 to 7 hours and about 1,270 m of ascent.
- From the Täschhütte side and Fluhalp: the route over the Rimpfischwänge, listed as WS, approaching from the west.
- North ridge: harder, rated ZS in the Saas-Fee region's route overview.
The summit section is rock climbing at roughly grade II, so weather and ridge conditions decide the outcome.
When should you go?
The climbing season normally runs from July to September, when glaciers are stable and the rock is often clear of fresh snow. Start very early and check the forecast at the hut. If you are not climbing, you can admire the peak from trails around Saas-Fee and Saas-Almagell.
Frequently asked questions
How high is the Rimpfischhorn?
It reaches 4,199 m above sea level, which makes it one of the Alpine four-thousanders.
Which range does it belong to?
The Pennine Alps, in the Allalin massif, in the canton of Valais, Switzerland.
Where should I start the climb?
Most parties start from the Britanniahütte (normal route) or from the Täschhütte and Fluhalp via the Rimpfischwänge.
Do I need a guide?
It is not mandatory, but glaciers and rock climbing near the top mean that inexperienced climbers should go with a licensed guide.
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