Weissmies

Weissmies is a four-thousander in the Pennine Alps, rising above the Saastal valley in the Swiss canton of Valais. The Swiss Alpine Club lists it at 4,017 m; older sources quote slightly different figures. Most climbers start from Saas-Almagell or Saas-Grund. It is the easternmost four-thousander of its range and one of the more approachable ones in the Alps.

Where is Weissmies and what makes it special?

The peak stands west of the Zwischbergen Pass, close to the Italian border, with the Saas villages of Saas-Almagell, Saas-Grund and Saas-Fee in the valley below. Glaciers flow off its slopes, including the Trift glacier on the northwest flank. The broad, white, heavily glaciated summit dome is recognisable from many points in the valley.

How do you climb it?

Two classic routes lead to the top.

• From Hohsaas via the northwest flank. A gondola from Saas-Grund carries you to the Hohsaas station at roughly 3,100 m. From there, the SAC portal puts the glacier climb at about 3.5 hours and around 900 m of ascent. It is graded PD: not technical, but you rope up and wear a harness and crampons. Crevasses and icefall are the main hazards, particularly in late summer and during hot spells. Many parties do it as a day trip.
• From the Almagellerhütte via the SSE ridge. The hut sits at 2,894 m, a few hours' walk from Saas-Almagell. From the hut it is about 4.5 hours and 1,138 m of ascent, graded PD+ with rock scrambling up to UIAA II. This route is longer and rockier.

A popular choice is the traverse: up the ridge from the Almagellerhütte, down via Hohsaas, which takes you from one side of the massif to the other.

When should you go?

The high-mountain season runs from June to September. Conditions are best in stable weather with firm snow at dawn, so climbers set off before sunrise. After hot weeks the glacier opens up more, so check current conditions with the hut or a guide before leaving.

Who is it for?

It suits people with basic glacier experience. Beginners should hire a mountain guide in Saas-Fee or Saas-Grund. You need a harness, rope, crampons, an ice axe and a helmet. The first ascent was made in 1855 by Häusser with Zurbriggen.

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Weissmies? The SAC gives 4,017 m. Other sources show 4,013 m or 4,023 m, depending on when the measurement was made.

Can I climb it without a guide? Yes, if you are experienced on glaciers and in crevasse rescue. Everyone else should go with a guide.

Where is the easiest start? The Hohsaas upper station above Saas-Grund, which cuts the climb to about three and a half hours.

Where can I stay overnight? At the Almagellerhütte (2,894 m), the Weissmieshütte near Hohsaas, or in the villages of the Saastal.