Galenstock

Galenstock (3,586 m) is a high alpine summit above the municipality of Obergoms in the canton of Valais, rising right on the border with Uri. It ranks fourth in height among the Urner Alps, and its summit ridge marks the line between the two cantons. The mountain looks down on the Rhône Glacier and the Furka Pass.

Where is Galenstock?

The peak sits in central Switzerland, between the Goms valley, where the Rhône begins its course, and the Urseren region on the Uri side. Its southern and eastern flanks fall toward the Rhône Glacier, one of the best-known ice streams in the Alps. The Furka Pass road runs nearby, so the area is easy to reach by car, but the climb itself calls for real mountaineering skills.

How do you climb Galenstock?

The standard route follows the north ridge and is graded PD on the alpine scale. Most parties start at the Albert-Heim-Hütte (SAC, 2,542 m). The hut is reached from Tiefenbach on a T2 trail in about 1.5 hours, with roughly 430 m of ascent. A longer option starts from the Tätsch parking area, which is served by a toll road.

From the hut the summit is about 1,000 m higher. A marked path leads to the Tiefen glacier, then the party ropes up and threads between crevasses, climbs a steep slope to a plateau and traverses left to a short via ferrata that gives access to the north ridge. You need crampons, a rope, glacier skills and ideally a guide. In late winter and spring the hut is also a base for ski tours.

What is its history?

The first ascent took place on 18 August 1845, by Swiss geologist Eduard Desor with Daniel Dollfus senior and junior and four local guides. They set out from the Grimsel side, and Desor's own account was later reprinted in the Alpine Journal.

The mountain has changed with the climate. Until the 1960s it was a genuine snow-and-ice tour; today the summit area is rocky in late summer as the ice recedes.

When should you go?

Summer and early autumn are best, when the approach to the hut is free of snow. Check glacier conditions and the state of the via ferrata before setting out. Ski mountaineers favour late winter and spring.

Frequently asked questions

How high is Galenstock?

3,586 m above sea level, the fourth-highest peak of the Urner Alps.

Can you climb it without a guide?

The normal route is PD and crosses a crevassed glacier. Anyone without glacier experience should hire a guide.

Where do you start?

From Tiefenbach it takes about 1.5 hours to reach the Albert-Heim-Hütte, and the summit push starts from there early the next morning.

Is Galenstock in the Bernese Alps?

No. It belongs to the Urner Alps, on the Uri–Valais border.