Gross Bielenhorn

Gross Bielenhorn is a 3,210 m summit in the canton of Uri, rising above the village of Realp near the Furka Pass. It belongs to the Urner Alps and ranks among the higher peaks around Andermatt. The climb itself is for experienced alpinists, but the surrounding huts, trails and via ferrata make the area rewarding even if you never reach the top.

Where is Gross Bielenhorn?

The mountain stands in the Urner Alps close to the Furka Pass, the road link between the Urseren valley and Valais. The closest village is Realp in Uri. The summit sits at roughly 46.60° N, 8.43° E. Do not confuse it with Galenstock or Gemsfairenstock, which are separate peaks nearby, or with the Bielenhöhe in Austria's Silvretta.

How do you get to the peak?

The easiest starting point is the Furka Pass, from where Albert-Heim-Hütte is about 1.5 hours on foot. The hut stands at 2,542 m, is run by the SAC Uto section from Realp and is open from mid-June to mid-October. The second base is Sidelenhütte at 2,708 m, owned by the Alpine Sportschule Gotthard of Andermatt and one of the highest huts in Uri.

What does the route look like?

From Sidelenhütte the way crosses the heavily crevassed Sidelengletscher below the west faces of Gross Bielenhorn. Crampons go on at the lower end of the glacier. This is glacier terrain that calls for roped travel, proper gear and crevasse know-how, so hiring a mountain guide is sensible. A different option is the Obere Bielenlücke: the route climbs snow fields beneath the summit to a saddle, where a high-alpine via ferrata begins.

What can you do without climbing?

Hikers can follow the trail linking the two huts, known as the Nepali Highway. It is graded T3+, takes around 2 hours and has two short rock steps secured with fixed ropes. It passes beneath the Bielenhorn faces with views over the rock-and-ice scenery of the Gotthard region. The Alpenkranz long-distance route also runs beneath the Bielenhorn on its way to Tiefenbach.

When should you go?

July, August and September are best, and October works if the weather holds. The Furka Pass is closed from November to May, which makes access hard in winter.

Frequently asked questions

How high is Gross Bielenhorn? 3,210 m above sea level.

Can a beginner climb it? No. The route crosses a crevassed glacier and needs alpine equipment and skills. Beginners should go with a guide or stick to the hut trails.

Where can I stay overnight? At Albert-Heim-Hütte (2,542 m, open mid-June to mid-October) or Sidelenhütte (2,708 m).

Is the trail between the huts difficult? It is rated T3+, takes about 2 hours and has two short steep sections with fixed ropes. You need sure footing and good weather.