Church of San Miguel

The Church of San Miguel rises above the Plaza Mayor of Cuzcurrita de Río Tirón, a small town in La Rioja right on the banks of the Tirón river. Built between 1753 and 1766 from sandstone quarried nearby, this Baroque church has been protected as a National Monument since 1978.

How do you get there?

Cuzcurrita de Río Tirón sits in the northwestern corner of La Rioja, close to the borders with the Basque Country and Burgos, along the Tirón river valley. A car is the easiest way in: the town lies on the road connecting Haro and Belorado, roughly half an hour from Haro, the capital of the Rioja Alta wine region. The church stands right on the main square, so once you park at the edge of town it's a short walk to reach it. The nearest major airport is Bilbao, from where renting a car is the most practical option for the rest of the trip.

What will you see?

The church's standout feature is its curved, undulating facade — an unusual sight in Spanish religious architecture of its era. The wave-like stonework, drawing on Italian Baroque ideas, echoes Francesco Borromini's San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane in Rome. Above it rises a slender tower decorated with columns, capitals and pinnacles, visible over the rooftops of the town long before you reach the square.

Inside, the three-nave layout is covered by semicircular arches, and the mood shifts to something far calmer and more classical than the dramatic exterior suggests. The neoclassical altarpieces by Miguel Antonio de Jáuregui are the highlight — some original, others recreated during later restoration campaigns. Take a moment to study the stonework details too: they show how precisely local masons worked the region's sandstone.

A further restoration phase wrapped up in 2024, renewing the exterior walls of the east and north facades and continuing work started the previous year. As a result, the stone exterior now looks noticeably brighter and cleaner than it did just a couple of years ago.

When should you visit?

Spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October) are the best windows, when temperatures across La Rioja are mild and the surrounding vineyards look their best — budding green in spring, harvest colors in autumn. Summers can get hot, but they also bring local festivals and processions where the church becomes the focal point of the town. Winter is quiet, with few visitors, which suits travelers looking for a slower pace.

Why stop in Cuzcurrita?

The Church of San Miguel is a good reason on its own to explore one of the lesser-known but genuinely authentic corners of Rioja Alta. The wider region is famous for its wines, and the roads leading here run through vineyards and small towns where Baroque architecture meets the raw, rural landscape of the Tirón valley. It makes a natural stopover between Burgos and Logroño for travelers who prefer to skip the busiest tourist routes.

Frequently asked questions

Is there an entrance fee? Viewing the exterior is free and possible at any time. Access inside depends on the parish's opening hours — it's best to check locally or ask at the tourist office, since the church remains an active place of worship.

How much time should I set aside? The church itself can be seen in 20 to 30 minutes, but it's worth adding an extra hour to wander the Plaza Mayor and the surrounding streets.

Are there other attractions nearby? Yes — Cuzcurrita lies along the Rioja Alta wine route, close to Haro with its well-known bodegas, and near walking trails that follow the Tirón river. It works well as a base for exploring the region's smaller towns.

Does the facade really reference Borromini? Yes, architectural historians point to a clear resemblance between the curved composition and Rome's San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane — a rare instance of such direct Italian influence reaching provincial Spanish Baroque.