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The fortress church of St. Mary of Mercy

Jelsa, Croatia

About this place

The fortress church of St. Mary of Mercy (also known as the Fortified Church of St. Mary) stands in Vrboska, a small Adriatic village on the northern coast of Hvar island in Croatia. It is one of the most unusual religious buildings in Dalmatia, because it was built to serve both as a place of worship and as a refuge from attack.

Why is a church built like a fortress?

In the 16th century the Dalmatian coast and its islands lived under the constant threat of Ottoman raids. Vrboska was attacked in 1571, when Ottoman forces under Uluz Ali raided the area and damaged the existing church. Rather than simply repair it, the community rebuilt it as a defensive structure, with work usually dated to the mid-1570s. Accounts say Venetian engineers were involved in the design, which fits the period, as Hvar was then part of the Venetian Republic.

What does it look like?

The older Gothic church, a single-nave building dating from the 15th century according to most accounts, was reinforced with thick walls and a bastion. The entrance side is protected by a large triangular ravelin, a defensive projection that kept attackers away from the main wall. The effect is unusual: from the outside the building reads more like a small fort than a parish church. Sources describe it as a rare example of a church-fortress on the Adriatic islands, and as one of the best-preserved fortified structures on Hvar.

Where is it and what is nearby?

Vrboska is often called "Little Venice" because of the narrow inlet that cuts into the village and is crossed by small stone bridges. The church rises above the stone houses and the harbour, so it is easy to spot and easy to combine with a stroll through the village. The town of Stari Grad is close by, and the main town of Hvar is a short drive away.

Visiting tips

  • The church is generally open to visitors during the tourist season; opening hours can vary, so check locally on the day.
  • Inside, the church is known for its works of art from the Renaissance period.
  • Dress modestly, as it remains a place of worship.
  • Allow around 20 to 30 minutes for the church itself, plus time to walk around the exterior walls and bastion.
  • The views over the village rooftops and the bay make it a good spot for photos, especially in soft evening light.

Frequently asked questions

Where is the fortress church of St. Mary of Mercy? In Vrboska, on the north coast of Hvar island, Croatia.

When was it fortified? After the Ottoman raid of 1571; the rebuilding is generally dated to around 1575.

Why was it fortified? To protect the villagers from Ottoman raids, which threatened the Dalmatian coast in the 16th century.

Can I go inside? Usually yes, during the tourist season. Hours vary, so confirm locally.

Is it worth a visit? Yes, if you are interested in history or unusual architecture. It is among the few churches in the region that doubled as a fortress.

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