Smrdan grad

Smrdan grad is a hilltop fortress ruin overlooking the village of Klek in the Slivno Ravno area, Dubrovnik-Neretva County, perched on an old route that once linked the Neretva valley with the Dubrovnik coast.

What survives today?

The visible walls date from the late 17th century, built on the foundations of an earlier medieval stronghold after Venetian forces captured the site from the Ottomans in 1689. The fortress follows a triangular layout, with ramparts running roughly 50 metres along each side. A rectangular tower anchors the southeastern corner, while a round tower stands at the northeastern end. Inside the walls, a small single-nave church with a rectangular apse and bell tower was added in the early 18th century. It was first dedicated to St. Roch and later rededicated to Our Lady (Velika Gospa).

Where does the name come from?

"Smrdan" derives from the Croatian word for "to stink." Local legend traces it to a failed siege, after which the bodies of Ottoman soldiers were said to have been left unburied at the fortress approaches for a long stretch of time, leaving the surrounding hillside with a lingering, unpleasant smell.

What else is nearby?

On the hill directly above Smrdan grad sits Gradina, an older hillfort ringed by three concentric dry-stone walls and dating back to pre-Roman times. From this higher vantage point, views stretch toward Ston, the Pelješac peninsula, the mouth of the Neretva River, and the site of ancient Narona. Several stećci — the distinctive medieval tombstones found across this part of the Balkans — have also been recorded near the fortress. The whole complex is listed as a protected cultural monument of Croatia.

How do you get there?

The usual starting point is the village of Klek, from where a marked hiking trail climbs toward the ruins. A longer route also connects the villages of Blace and Lovorje to Smrdan grad, and both paths are documented on hiking platforms popular with visitors exploring the wider Neretva Riviera on foot.

When is the best time to visit?

Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons, since the climb is steep and rocky and summer heat makes it considerably harder going. Bring water and sturdy footwear — the terrain is uneven, and shade along the trail is limited to a few wooded stretches.

Why detour here?

Smrdan grad isn't a widely known stop on Croatia's tourist map, which is exactly why it rewards visitors with quiet ruins, free of the crowds found in Ston or on Pelješac. It suits travellers who enjoy combining a bit of regional military history with sweeping views over the Neretva delta and the Adriatic beyond.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the hike to Smrdan grad difficult? The approach is steep and rocky but doesn't require climbing gear — comfortable trekking shoes and reasonable fitness are enough.

How long does a visit take? Climbing up, exploring the ruins, and returning typically takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours round trip, depending on the starting trailhead.

Is there an entrance fee? No, the site is freely accessible, with no ticket booth or admission charge.

What can be combined with a visit to Smrdan grad? It pairs well with a day exploring Ston's defensive walls and relaxing on the beaches of Klek along the Neretva bay.