Smrdan Grad

Smrdan Grad is a set of fortress ruins perched above Klek, in the Slivno municipality, right by the village of Zavala in the Neretva valley. The old stronghold once guarded a mountain path linking the river valley with the Dubrovnik coast, and for centuries it sat on the shifting frontier between Venetian and Ottoman power.

Where does the name come from?

Local legend says the fortress got its name — which translates roughly to "the stinking fortress" — from the smell that lingered after a failed siege, when the bodies of Ottoman soldiers were left below its walls. The documented history is almost as dramatic: the ruins visible today date from the end of the 17th century, built on the site of an earlier medieval fort after the Venetians captured it from the Ottomans in 1689.

What will you see there?

The fortress follows a triangular layout, with ramparts running roughly 50 metres along each side. Two towers of different shapes still stand at the corners — a rectangular one to the southeast and a round one to the northeast — giving the ruins a distinctive, asymmetrical silhouette visible from a distance.

In the early 18th century, a small single-nave church with a rectangular apse and a bell tower was built inside the walls. Originally dedicated to St. Roch, it was later rededicated to the Virgin Mary. It's one of the better-preserved parts of the complex and gives a sense of what daily life looked like for the small garrison stationed in this remote spot.

It's worth climbing the hill that towers above Smrdan Grad itself. Up there lie the remains of a much older defensive structure — a prehistoric hillfort ringed by three concentric dry-stone walls, predating even the Roman period. From this vantage point you get one of the best views in the area, taking in Ston, the Pelješac peninsula, the mouth of the Neretva river, and the site of ancient Narona.

Several stećci — medieval carved tombstones typical of the wider Bosnia-Herzegovina and Dalmatia region — have also been found near the complex, underlining just how long this stretch of the valley has been inhabited.

How to get there?

Smrdan Grad sits above Klek, a popular seaside holiday village in the Slivno municipality, along the route connecting the Neretva valley with the coast near Dubrovnik. Getting there by car means following local municipal roads, and reaching the ruins themselves requires a short but steep walk on foot — comfortable shoes and water are a good idea, especially in summer.

When to visit?

Since the site offers no shade or shelter from the sun, spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons to visit, with milder temperatures making the climb up the hill much more pleasant. In summer, an early morning visit is your best bet — both to avoid the heat and to catch the clearest views over the Neretva estuary.

The site is small and rarely crowded, making it a good add-on to a beach stay in nearby Klek — a solid pick for anyone looking for a bit of history away from the region's more heavily visited attractions.

Frequently asked questions

Is entry to Smrdan Grad free? Yes, the fortress grounds are open to the public with no admission fee.

How long does a visit take? Walking through the ruins and up to the hillfort above typically takes 45 minutes to an hour, depending on your pace and how long you linger over the views.

Is the trail suitable for children? The climb is steep and partly rocky, so caution is advised with small children; older kids should manage it without much trouble.

What else is worth seeing nearby? After coming down from the fortress, it's worth heading to the beaches at Klek or out to the mouth of the Neretva, the same landscape you admired earlier from the hill above Smrdan Grad.