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Gross Spannort

Attinghausen, Switzerland

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About this place

Gross Spannort (3,198 m) is one of the higher summits of the Uri Alps, rising in the canton of Uri near Attinghausen in Central Switzerland. It stands between the Engelberg valley and the Reuss valley, where the town of Erstfeld lies. Glaciers wrap around most of the mountain, so this is an objective for climbers with alpine experience rather than a casual hike.

Where is Gross Spannort?

The peak belongs to Uri, yet its summit sits on a watershed: one side drains into the Engelberger Aa, the other into the main Reuss valley. Nearly the whole mountain is ringed by ice, the largest field being the Glatt Firn. Southwest of the summit stands Chli Spannort, a separate and lower peak. The two are easy to confuse, but their routes and heights differ.

How do you climb it?

The most used approach starts in Engelberg and leads to the Spannorthütte SAC hut (1,956 m) beneath the Schlossberg. From the hut, a hike of about 1.5 hours reaches the Schlossberglücke saddle (2,627 m). Next comes a crossing of the Glatt Firn glacier, where crevasses call for care, and roughly an hour later you stand at the Spannortjoch saddle (2,922 m).

Beyond the saddle the route follows the south ridge. The SAC normal route is graded PD, with rock steps up to grade III tackled in short pitches, then a snowy plateau and an easier finish to the top. Allow 4.5 to 5 hours and about 1,295 m of ascent from the hut. On the way down, the steep sections are usually abseiled, and depending on snow cover the last rappel can need a 60 m rope.

A second option begins on the Erstfeld side at the Kröntenhütte, crossing the Glatt Firn to the same saddle area. The Alpenkranz trail stage between Kröntenhütte and Spannorthütte covers 8 km and is rated T5.

What gear and skills do you need?

Crampons, an ice axe and a rope are standard for the glacier section. You need to be comfortable roped up and able to judge glacier and rock conditions. Without that background, hire a mountain guide.

Where do you stay?

The Spannorthütte SAC is open from June to October. A hut sleeping bag is mandatory and can be rented or bought on site. In winter the area draws ski tourers, and the hut is listed in the SAC route portal for ski tours too.

When should you go?

Summer and early autumn are best, when the hut is staffed and the ridge is mostly clear of snow. Start early so you have time in hand for the descent and abseils.

Frequently asked questions

How high is Gross Spannort? It reaches 3,198 m and belongs to the Uri Alps.

Is it the same as Chli Spannort? No. Chli Spannort is a separate, lower summit southwest of Gross Spannort.

Do I need glacier equipment? Yes. The route crosses the Glatt Firn glacier, so bring crampons, an ice axe and a rope.

Where is the easiest place to start? From Engelberg up to the Spannorthütte, then over the Schlossberglücke and Spannortjoch to the south ridge.

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