About this place
The Collegiate of San Miguel Arcángel stands as the defining landmark of Alfaro, a town in La Rioja, northern Spain, and it holds the title of the largest church in the entire region. Located right on Plaza de España in the heart of town, it draws visitors for two very different reasons: its striking brick architecture and the enormous stork colony nesting on its roof.
What makes this church so unusual?
It is the only collegiate church in Spain built entirely of brick, a distinctive example of late 17th-century Aragonese Baroque. The building covers roughly 3,000 square meters, making it by far the largest religious structure in La Rioja, and it was declared a National Monument in 1976.
The 45-meter-high facade follows a classicist design and is flanked by two nearly identical towers, each rising 50 meters. A grand staircase leads up to the entrance, forming one of the most recognizable features of the surrounding square.
What will you find inside?
The interior opens into a surprisingly spacious rectangular hall divided into three naves of equal height, carried by brick pillars and semicircular arches supporting the vaults. Two elements stand out immediately: the choir carved by sculptor Rubalcaba and the main altarpiece dedicated to Saint Michael the Archangel, the church's patron.
Take your time with the details — brick as the dominant building material gives the interior a warm, unusual texture rarely found in Spanish churches of this scale.
Why do storks live on the roof?
The rooftop is an attraction in its own right: it hosts the largest white stork colony on a single building anywhere in the world, with around 700 birds. The colony draws as many nature enthusiasts as architecture lovers, and the spectacle of dozens of nests crowning the towers and roofline is hard to miss even from a distance. Spring and early summer are the best times to see the colony at its most active.
How do you get there?
Alfaro sits in the Ebro river valley, close to where La Rioja meets Aragón and Navarre. The Collegiate stands right in the town center on Plaza de España, so it's an easy walk from anywhere in the old quarter. Alfaro has bus connections to Logroño and Tudela, and the nearest major airport is in Zaragoza.
When should you visit?
Spring and early summer are ideal, when the stork colony is most active and temperatures are pleasant for exploring the square and surrounding streets. Summers can get quite hot, so plan midday visits accordingly.
Frequently asked questions
Is this the only building of its kind in Spain? Yes — it's the only collegiate church in the country built entirely in brick, making it a unique example of Aragonese Baroque architecture.
How many storks nest on the roof? Around 700 birds, forming the largest stork colony on a single building recorded anywhere in the world.
How tall are the towers? Both towers flanking the facade rise about 50 meters, while the facade itself reaches 45 meters.
Is the church easy to reach on foot? Yes. It sits in central Alfaro on Plaza de España, reached by a wide, distinctive staircase, and is within a few minutes' walk from anywhere in the old town.
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