Church of Saint Mary

The Church of Saint Mary, in the old town of Xixona (Alicante province, Spain), is one of the oldest standing structures in this small mountain town famous for its turrón. Locals call it the "Iglesia Vieja," the Old Church, and today only its entrance portal survives — transformed into one of the best viewpoints over the rooftops of Xixona.

What can you actually see today?

The single element still standing from the medieval building is the doorway that once stood at the foot of the nave. It is framed by slightly pointed arches, an early hint of Gothic style breaking through an otherwise Romanesque structure. Above the opening, a carved stone group identifies the church's original dedication: the Virgin Mary at the center, supported by an angel, flanked by Saint Bartholomew on her right and Saint Barbara on her left.

Records describe the original church as a five-nave building, the naves separated by four semicircular arches, with a presbytery covered by a double-pitched timber roof. None of that inner structure remains visible today — only the doorway still stands, open to the sky, marking where the church once rose above the town.

How old is it, and why did it fall into ruin?

Construction is generally dated to the mid-13th century, shortly after the Christian conquest of the region, in a style transitional between Romanesque and Gothic. Local tradition links the founding of the church to King James I of Aragon, and its position at the heart of the old town suggests it may have replaced an earlier mosque, following the pattern seen in many towns retaken during the Reconquista.

For centuries the church served as Xixona's main parish. That changed toward the end of the 16th and into the 17th century, when the growing population outgrew the building. Church authorities ordered a new, larger parish church to be built elsewhere in town, and the old Santa María gradually lost its religious role, eventually falling into the ruined state visible today.

How do you get there?

The ruins sit right in the historic core of Xixona, on Plaça Nova, reached only on foot through the town's narrow medieval streets. There's no vehicle access to the site itself — part of the appeal is the walk up through the old quarter to reach it.

When is the best time to visit?

Since the site is essentially an open viewpoint rather than an enclosed building, visiting in the morning or late afternoon gives the softest light for photographs and the quietest experience, away from the daytime crowds drawn to Xixona's turrón shops and museum.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is left of the original Santa María church? Only the entrance portal survives, with its pointed arches and carved group of the Virgin Mary, Saint Bartholomew, and Saint Barbara. The five original naves and the presbytery have disappeared over the centuries.

Why did the church stop functioning as a parish? By the late 16th century Xixona's population had outgrown the building, so a new, larger parish church was built elsewhere in town, leaving Santa María to fall gradually into ruin.

Was the church built over a former mosque? Local tradition and the church's location at the center of the old town suggest it, since it was built shortly after the 13th-century Christian conquest, echoing a common pattern in the region.

Exactly where are the ruins located? On Plaça Nova, in the historic center of Xixona (Jijona), Alicante province — now serving as a scenic viewpoint over the town's rooftops.