Chapel of Saint John of Nepomuk

The Chapel of Saint John of Nepomuk is a Baroque building from 1722 standing on a hill above the town of Stráž pod Ralskem in northern Bohemia, next to the ruins of Vartenberk Castle. Although it has served as an Orthodox church for the past two decades, its turbulent past stretches back through Habsburg-era church reforms and a fire that once threatened the small building entirely.

Where does the chapel stand?

The building sits at the eastern end of a ridge known as Horky, right beside the former Vartenberk Castle, linked to it by a tree-lined avenue. Before the chapel itself existed, this same spot held a stone pillar topped with a statue of St. John of Nepomuk, erected in 1700. Twenty-two years later, Count Ludwig Hartig, owner of the nearby castle, replaced the modest pillar with a proper Baroque chapel built of stone.

How did the chapel change over the centuries?

The building's history has been anything but calm. A fire damaged the chapel in 1768, and its reconstruction was overseen by Adam Hartig, the founder's son. A few years later, between 1776 and 1780, the chapel served as a temporary parish church — likely while the main local church was being repaired or was otherwise unavailable. Under Emperor Joseph II, whose sweeping church reforms closed many smaller chapels and monasteries across the Habsburg monarchy, the building was shut down and converted into a gunpowder store. Only after the emperor's death did it regain its original religious purpose — services have been held here continuously since 1818.

What changed inside the chapel?

The chapel's furnishings were updated more than once. In 1814 it received a glass altar with a sculpture, which was replaced decades later, in 1859, by a new altar featuring a painting by the artist Kandler from nearby Chrastava. The original statue of St. John of Nepomuk, tied to the very earliest history of the site, did not stay inside the chapel permanently — it was first moved to the town museum and later placed at a roundabout at the entrance to the town, where it can still be seen today by drivers arriving in Stráž pod Ralskem.

Why is it an Orthodox church today?

The most unusual chapter in the chapel's history came in 2001, when the building was taken over by the Orthodox Church. Since Orthodoxy does not recognize John of Nepomuk as a saint, the building was given a new dedication — the Church of the Holy Great Martyr Panteleimon. Despite the change of name and denomination, the building has kept its three-century-old Baroque appearance. Orthodox services take place here regularly, every Sunday, making the chapel an active place of worship rather than just a historical landmark.

What should you know before visiting?

Because the chapel stands on high ground, reaching it involves a short uphill walk, but the view over the surrounding area and the proximity to the ruins of Vartenberk Castle make the climb worthwhile. It's a spot of interest for anyone curious about local church history as well as the shifting religious affiliations found across the Českolipsko region.

Frequently asked questions

When was the Chapel of Saint John of Nepomuk in Stráž pod Ralskem built? The chapel was built in 1722 on the initiative of Count Ludwig Hartig, owner of the nearby Vartenberk Castle, on the site of an earlier stone pillar topped with a statue of the saint from 1700.

Why was the chapel turned into a gunpowder store? This happened under Emperor Joseph II, whose reforms closed numerous smaller chapels and monasteries throughout the Habsburg monarchy. The chapel returned to religious use after the emperor's death, and services have continued here since 1818.

Why does the chapel have a different name today? Since 2001 the building has belonged to the Orthodox Church, which does not recognize John of Nepomuk as a saint, so the chapel was renamed the Church of the Holy Great Martyr Panteleimon.

Where is the original statue of St. John of Nepomuk now? The original statue, tied to the earliest history of the site, now stands at a roundabout at the entrance to Stráž pod Ralskem, after previously being kept at the town museum.