Antigua Iglesia de Garayo

Antigua Iglesia de Garayo — the former parish church of Saint Stephen the Protomartyr (Iglesia de San Esteban Protomártir) — is a ruin standing on the site of the abandoned village of Garaio (also spelled Garayo), now part of the municipality of Barrundia in the province of Álava, Basque Country. The site sits on a peninsula surrounded by the waters of the Ullibarri-Gamboa reservoir, and it is one of the few visible traces left of a settlement that disappeared from the map in the mid-20th century.

Where exactly is this church?

Barrundia lies in the Llanada Alavesa (Arabako Lautada), the farmland plain that forms the heart of Álava. Garaio itself is no longer a village but a peninsula reaching into the Ullibarri-Gamboa reservoir at the mouth of the Zadorra river, covering roughly 116 hectares and managed today as a provincial park with its own access roads and car parks. The church ruins stand inside this park and can be reached on foot.

Why did the village disappear?

Garaio was still an independent settlement in the 19th century, with a recorded population of 52 in the mid-1800s. On 10 May 1957 it was formally absorbed into the municipality of Barrundia, and its fate was sealed soon after by the construction of the Ullibarri-Gamboa reservoir: rising water covered part of the valley, residents left their homes one by one, and the village was eventually deserted altogether. Almost nothing of the old settlement survives above ground — the church is by far the most recognizable remnant.

How old is the church?

The building visitors see today dates from the 18th century, when it was raised as the parish church of Garaio. Religious use of the site, however, goes back much further: records from 1556 mention an earlier hermitage dedicated to Saint Bartholomew on the same ground, of which nothing physical remains. The Church of San Esteban outlived the village itself, falling gradually into ruin after the settlement emptied out — only its walls and bell tower have survived to the present day.

What is left to see on site?

In 2017, the Provincial Council of Álava (Diputación Foral de Álava) carried out consolidation work with a budget of 68,061 euros, cleaning and reinforcing the structure adjoining the tower and building a wooden walkway so visitors can step inside without risking the remaining stonework. One unexpected detail: since 1995, a pair of storks has nested in the abandoned bell tower, turning the ruin into a breeding site as well as a historical landmark.

What else is worth seeing nearby?

Garaio Park today is mainly known as a destination for a day by the water. Its northern section, within Barrundia, holds Moskurio beach, which carries a Blue Flag — the international certification for water quality and facilities. Visitors will find showers, restrooms, first-aid points, ramps for reduced-mobility access, and picnic areas with tables and grills. Footpaths and cycling routes run through the park, and the reservoir itself is used for rowing, kayaking and windsurfing.

When should you visit?

In summer, the park is at its busiest, with the full bathing season in swing and all beach facilities open. Spring and autumn suit visitors who prefer a quieter look at the church ruins and a walk around the reservoir shoreline without the crowds.

Frequently asked questions

What was the Antigua Iglesia de Garayo? It was the parish church of the village of Garaio, built in the 18th century and dedicated to Saint Stephen the Protomartyr, abandoned along with the rest of the village in the mid-20th century.

Why was the village of Garaio abandoned? Because of the construction of the Ullibarri-Gamboa reservoir, which flooded part of the valley. The settlement was formally annexed to Barrundia on 10 May 1957, and residents gradually moved away afterward.

What survives of the church today? Its walls and bell tower, consolidated in 2017 through work carried out by the Provincial Council of Álava, with a wooden walkway now allowing access to the interior.

What else can visitors do near the ruins? Garaio Park offers Blue Flag-certified Moskurio beach, picnic areas, walking and cycling routes, and water sports on the Ullibarri-Gamboa reservoir.