Abadía de Viaceli

Abadía de Viaceli (Abbey of Santa María de Viaceli) is a Trappist monastery in Cóbreces, in the municipality of Alfoz de Lloredo, on the Cantabrian coast of northern Spain. The building sits just a few hundred meters from the Cantabrian Sea, on rising ground with views over the coastline and surrounding hills.

How was the abbey founded?

The story begins at the turn of the 20th century. Brothers Antonio and Manuel Bernaldo de Quirós donated part of their family estate to establish a monastery, though the legal groundwork took years — formal permission for the foundation was only granted in 1903. The first monks arrived the following year, Cistercians from the French abbey of Notre-Dame du Désert (Santa María del Desierto). Construction of the monastic complex ran from 1906 to 1910, and on October 16, 1926, the community was formally raised to the rank of abbey. Today Viaceli is home to a community of Cistercians of the Strict Observance — better known as Trappist monks.

What is there to see?

The building stands out from typical Cantabrian architecture: a neo-Gothic structure painted blue, creating a striking contrast with its red tile roof. Its form is deliberately plain, free of unnecessary ornament, in keeping with Cistercian austerity. One notable detail — Viaceli is considered the first building in Spain constructed using reinforced concrete, a genuinely innovative choice for its time.

The monastery's history also carries a difficult chapter: members of the community were among the victims of persecution during the Spanish Civil War, a fact that remains part of the site's identity to this day.

What does the community do day to day?

The monks of Viaceli are known across Cantabria for their cheese — Queso Trapa, made using traditional methods at the monastery's own dairy workshop. The cheese can be bought directly at the abbey shop, and the production side operates as a separate contact point (fábrica de queso). It's one of the region's most recognizable products, closely tied to this specific place.

The abbey also runs a hospedería, a guesthouse with eight double rooms and nine single rooms, including facilities accessible to visitors with disabilities. It's aimed at people seeking quiet and retreat rather than casual sightseeing, so it's worth calling or checking the monastery's website ahead of time to confirm availability.

How to get there and when to visit?

Cóbreces lies on the Cantabrian coast, close to well-known regional destinations such as Comillas and Santillana del Mar. Driving is by far the easiest way to reach it, since the area isn't served by frequent public transport. The monastery remains a living religious community rather than a conventional tourist site, so visiting mostly means attending liturgical services — early-morning Matins and evening Vespers among them — or stopping by the cheese shop. Visitors are asked to switch off phones and keep to the quiet, contemplative character of the place.

The best time to visit is spring or summer, when the coastal weather makes it easier to combine the abbey with a longer day exploring the area, though the monastery itself welcomes visitors year-round.

Frequently asked questions

Can tourists enter Abadía de Viaceli? Yes, but it's a working monastery, not a museum — access is mainly limited to attending Mass or liturgical hours and visiting the shop, rather than freely touring the interior.

What's worth buying on-site? The abbey's signature Queso Trapa cheese, made by the monks using traditional methods — one of Cantabria's best-known regional products.

Can you stay overnight at the monastery? Yes, through its hospedería, which offers rooms to guests seeking silence and retreat. Advance booking by phone or email is required.

What makes the building architecturally distinctive? Its blue-painted neo-Gothic form, and the fact that it's regarded as the first reinforced-concrete building in Spain.