Sveta Marija na Škriljinah

Sveta Marija na Škriljinah (Church of St. Mary on Škriljine) is a small cemetery church near the village of Beram in Istria, in the municipality of Pazin. It holds one of Croatia's most valuable sets of late Gothic frescoes and is regularly counted among the most important medieval paintings on the whole peninsula.

Where is the church and how do you get there?

The church stands in a cemetery roughly one kilometre northeast of Beram. The village lies about five kilometres from Pazin, along the road from Pazin towards Poreč. Some descriptions mention a short stretch through woodland, so comfortable shoes help. The church is normally kept locked and the key is held by a local caretaker, so it is wise to contact her or the Pazin tourist information office and arrange a visit beforehand.

What makes the frescoes special?

The paintings cover almost all of the interior walls. They are late Gothic in style and are attributed to master Vincent of Kastav. A Latin inscription on the south wall gives the year of completion as 1474. Scholars note that several artists worked on the decoration, not Vincent alone.

Most scenes show episodes from the lives of Mary and Jesus, told in a vivid, picture-book manner that worshippers who could not read could still follow. The best-known composition is the Dance of Death, in which kings, merchants, cardinals and even a pope dance hand in hand with death. The theme is a reminder that everyone is equal in the face of mortality, whatever their rank.

What happened to the church over time?

In the 18th century, during the Baroque period, the church was enlarged and renovated. This came at a cost: part of the frescoes was damaged or destroyed, and the remainder was covered over. Only in 1913 were the paintings uncovered and restored, which is why visitors can see them today.

Why visit?

• It is one of the region's finest examples of medieval wall painting.
• The Dance of Death is among the best-known depictions of its kind in Istria.
• Beram and the area around Pazin fit neatly into a day trip through inland Istria, for example together with Pazin Castle.
• The building is small, so you view the frescoes up close and in quiet.

Frequently asked questions

Is the church open every day? Usually not. Entry is by prior arrangement because the key is kept by a caretaker in Beram. Check current contact details with the local tourist office.

Who painted the frescoes? Master Vincent of Kastav is regarded as the principal author, though several artists took part.

When were they painted? A Latin inscription on the south wall points to 1474.

How long does a visit take? The interior is small, so a visit typically takes a few dozen minutes, including time to study the Dance of Death.

Is it hard to get there from Pazin? No. Beram is about five kilometres from the town, and the church is a short walk from the village.