Sirač

Sirač is an Illyrian hillfort (gradina) in the municipality of Ploče, in southern Dalmatia's Dubrovnik-Neretva County. It sits on the hills above the village of Vidonja, near Zavala, a short drive inland from the Adriatic coast.

What should you know about Sirač?

Sirač is one of several Illyrian hillforts clustered in this microregion. Right next to it rises Velika Gradina above Vidonja, and a little further away, on the hill of Žuželj, the remains of an old Illyrian cult site survive. An ancient path once ran through the whole area, connecting Narona on the Neretva river with the Vrgorac-Neretva lake; burial mounds, known locally as gomile, still line its former route.

Why is this place significant?

Sirač and its neighboring hillforts show how the same landscape kept its strategic and sacred role across millennia. The Illyrians built fortified settlements on these hilltops, and centuries later, in the Christian era, a stone church dedicated to St John the Baptist was raised at the foot of the same hills, in Zavala. Around the church stand medieval stećci - carved stone sarcophagi decorated with dancing scenes, horsemen, deer hunts, and motifs of crosses and birds.

How do you get to Sirač?

The hillfort lies inland, among the hills surrounding Zavala and Vidonja, not far from central Ploče. Local tourism associations are working on marking trails that would link the various hillforts - from Radoši, through the Zavala area, to Žuželj - into an educational route following the paths of Illyrian warriors. For now, reaching Sirač itself takes good orientation in the terrain, so it's worth checking the approach with local guides beforehand.

What will you see on site?

What remains of the gradina are mainly traces of defensive walls and the outline of the old fortified structure - the kind of stone rampart typical of Illyrian hillforts in this region, built on hilltops overlooking the valleys and old travel routes below. Nearby, at the church in Zavala, you can also see the stećci mentioned above, along with the remains of a tower that was later converted into a parish house.

When should you visit?

Given the rocky, partly overgrown terrain, spring or autumn are the best times to come, when temperatures are milder than in high summer and vegetation doesn't block the approach to the ruins. It's worth combining the trip with a visit to the nearby Baćina Lakes or central Ploče, rounding out the day with some time by the water.

Frequently asked questions

What is Sirač? It's an Illyrian hillfort (gradina) in the Vidonja and Zavala area, within the municipality of Ploče - one of several prehistoric fortifications clustered in this part of Dalmatia.

Can you visit it freely? The site isn't formally developed for tourism - there are no marked paths leading directly to the gradina, though local plans aim to create a trail connecting the nearby hillforts.

What else is worth seeing nearby? Close by, at the Church of St John the Baptist in Zavala, medieval carved stećci survive, and a little further away are the hillfort on Žuželj hill and Velika Gradina above Vidonja.

How do you get there from Ploče? The Vidonja and Zavala area lies a short drive inland from central Ploče.