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About this place
Remuh Synagogue is a small sixteenth-century synagogue in Kraków's Kazimierz district and the only one in the city where services are still held regularly. It stands on Szeroka Street, and right behind it lies one of the oldest Jewish cemeteries in Poland. Together they form a place that draws pilgrims from around the world.
Who was the Remuh?
The name comes from the Hebrew acronym of Rabbi Moses Isserles (c. 1525–1572), regarded as one of the leading authorities on Ashkenazi Jewish law. He wrote the "Mappah", a commentary that supplemented Joseph Karo's legal code with Ashkenazi customs, which is why he was sometimes called the Maimonides of Polish Jewry. The synagogue was founded by his father, Israel ben Josef, a merchant and royal banker who obtained permission from King Sigismund Augustus in 1556 to set up a house of prayer.
How did the building evolve?
The first building burned down in the great fire of the Jewish town in 1557. Construction of a masonry synagogue on the same spot began in 1558. It was altered during the 17th and 18th centuries, and its present look owes most to a restoration in 1829 and further work in 1933. During the German occupation the interior was devastated, but after the war the building was rebuilt and returned to use as a house of prayer.
Among the oldest surviving elements are a stone Torah ark and a stone alms box. The interior is small, modest and intimate, very different from the grand synagogues of many other cities.
What is the Remuh Cemetery?
The adjoining cemetery dates from the 16th century. Its first burials are said to have been victims of an epidemic, and it remained in use until the end of the 18th century. Moses Isserles was buried here in 1572, and his grave is still a pilgrimage site, where visitors leave pebbles and handwritten prayers. Other renowned scholars rest here too, including the kabbalist Nathan Spira and Rabbi Joel Sirkes.
During the occupation the cemetery was almost completely destroyed, and only a dozen or so gravestones survived in their original state. After the war the grounds were tidied and many tombstones were set in rows. Some Renaissance-era tombstones remain and are valued by researchers of funerary art. Conservation work has continued over the decades.
How to visit
The synagogue is an active house of prayer that is also open to visitors. Sightseeing is not possible on Saturdays, Jewish holidays or during prayers, and on Fridays it closes earlier. Modest dress is expected, and men should cover their heads. Please behave respectfully, because this is both a place of worship and a burial ground.
Szeroka Street and the surroundings of the cemetery can be seen year-round, and a walk through the former Jewish quarter pairs well with visits to the nearby synagogues and museums.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Remuh Synagogue still active? Yes, it is the only synagogue in Kazimierz where services are held regularly.
Who was the Remuh? Rabbi Moses Isserles, a distinguished Kraków scholar and author of a commentary on the code of Jewish law, who died in 1572.
Is the cemetery part of the synagogue? The cemetery adjoins the synagogue and forms one complex with it, but they are two separate sites with different histories.
Why are there pebbles on the graves? Leaving a pebble is a traditional Jewish way to honor the dead, used in place of flowers.
Can I visit on the Sabbath? Usually not. The synagogue is closed to visitors on the Sabbath and holidays, so plan around the calendar.
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