Nesthorn

Nesthorn is a glaciated rock peak of roughly 3,820 m above Naters in the Swiss canton of Valais. It belongs to the Bernese Alps and rises among the high summits around the Aletsch glacier region. This is an objective for experienced mountaineers, not for casual walkers.

Where is the Nesthorn?

The mountain stands north of the town of Brig. The Oberaletsch Glacier wraps around its north and east sides, while the Gredetschtal valley closes it in to the south. It forms part of the Bernese Alps subrange that culminates at the Aletschhorn. Most expeditions start from Belalp, the mountain hamlet above Naters.

What makes it notable?

The peak has a long climbing history. The first ascent came in 1865 from Belalp, by B. George and H. Mortimer with guide Christian Almer and his son. They skirted the foot of the mountain toward the Beich glacier, climbed a steep gully onto the ridge above the Gredetschtal and reached the top in about six hours of climbing, rests not included.

Harder lines followed:

• 1924 – the north ridge, approached from the Oberaletsch hut,
• 1933 – the north face, first climbed by Willo Welzenbach and Drexel,
• February 2025 – a new route up the northwest pillar, approached from Belalp over the Oberaletsch and Beich glaciers.

How do you climb it?

You need glacier experience, rope-team gear and sound judgment of conditions. The Baltschiederklause and Oberaletschhütte huts serve as bases. The usual descent leads from the summit over the Gredetschjoch pass, then follows the Breithorn normal route or a steep glacier arm.

When should you go?

The mountaineering season runs from summer into early autumn, when glacier routes are best established and huts are open. In winter and spring the terrain demands ski-touring and avalanche skills. Check the forecast and crevasse conditions first, and hire a mountain guide if you lack experience.

Not a climber?

You can still admire the Nesthorn from around Belalp and from trails above the Aletsch glacier. For experienced alpinists it is a classic regional goal that combines a glacier approach with mixed rock and ice climbing. The summit lies at about 46.41 N, 7.93 E.

Frequently asked questions

How high is the Nesthorn? About 3,820 m above sea level, in the Bernese Alps of Valais.

Where is the easiest place to start? Belalp above Naters. The approach crosses the Oberaletsch and Beich glaciers, and the 1865 first ascent began here.

Do I need a guide? Without glacier experience, yes. The route crosses crevassed terrain and calls for rope skills and equipment.

Where can I stay overnight? The Baltschiederklause and Oberaletschhütte huts are named as bases. Confirm availability before you travel.