Gspaltenhorn

Gspaltenhorn is a 3,436 m summit in the Bernese Alps, rising above Lauterbrunnen in the Swiss canton of Bern. It stands between the Kiental and Lauterbrunnen valleys and is the highest point of the group running northeast of the Gamchilücke pass. This is a mountaineer's objective rather than a casual walk, yet it is worth knowing as one of the great skylines of the Bernese Oberland.

Where is the Gspaltenhorn?

The peak belongs to the main chain of the Bernese Alps, in the western Alps. Its coordinates are roughly 46.51° N, 7.83° E. The Kiental valley guards the approach from the north, the slopes fall toward Lauterbrunnen on the other side, and Kandersteg and the Löschental valley lie nearby. The setting is pure high-alpine terrain: glaciers and steep rock faces.

How do you get there?

The usual base is the Gspaltenhornhütte, an SAC hut sitting beneath the rock walls at the very back of the Kiental. From Griesalp, walking to the hut takes about 3 hours. The Mutthornhütte is another possible starting point. Longer approaches to the summit also begin in Lauterbrunnen, Kandersteg or the Löschental, and trip descriptions put these at roughly 6 to 8 hours.

Can you climb it?

Yes, but only with real alpine skills. The standard route follows the northwest ridge, known as the Leiterngrat. The Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) calls it a beautiful, highly recommended tour that starts at the Gspaltenhornhütte. The terrain mixes rock and ice, so you need equipment, climbing experience and a sound read of the weather. Anyone lacking those should hire a mountain guide.

Who made the first ascent?

The first ascent took place on 10 July 1869 along that same northwest ridge, today's normal route. G. E. Forster (spelled Foster in some sources) climbed it with the guides J. Anderegg and H. Baumann. That places the peak among the summits taken during the golden age of alpinism.

When should you go?

The climbing season is summer, when the huts are staffed and the ridge is clear of deep snow. Check the forecast and current conditions with the SAC and the hut before setting out, because weather changes quickly at this altitude. The Kiental and Lauterbrunnen areas are also pleasant outside the climbing season if you simply want to admire the massif from the valley.

What else is nearby?

Lauterbrunnen is known for its many waterfalls and its deep glacial valley. The Kiental is a quieter valley with walking routes and the road end at Griesalp. Kandersteg, close by, is another popular base for mountain trips. All three are good places to view the high peaks of the Bernese Alps.

Frequently asked questions

How high is the Gspaltenhorn?

It reaches 3,436 m above sea level and is the highest summit of its group northeast of the Gamchilücke pass.

Which canton is it in?

Canton Bern, Switzerland, between the Kiental and Lauterbrunnen valleys.

Where do climbers start?

At the Gspaltenhornhütte, about 3 hours' walk from Griesalp. The Leiterngrat route begins there.

Is it a beginner's mountain?

No. It is a rock-and-ice alpine climb that calls for experience or a guide.