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Doldenhorn

Kandersteg, Switzerland

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About this place

Doldenhorn (3,638 m) is a peak in the Bernese Alps that rises above the village of Kandersteg in the canton of Bern. Part of the Blüemlisalp massif, it is one of the defining views of the valley, and Lake Oeschinen lies beneath its northern side.

Where is the Doldenhorn?

The mountain stands in the Bernese Oberland, on the main chain of the Bernese Alps in the western part of the range. Its parent massif, Blüemlisalp, stretches between Kandersteg and the Kiental valley, and its highest point is the Blüemlisalphorn at 3,661 m, only slightly taller than the Doldenhorn. Neighbouring summits include the Fründenhorn and the Oeschinenhorn, and together with the Doldenhorn they frame Lake Oeschinen, which formed when a landslide blocked the outflow of glacial streams.

Who first climbed it?

The first ascent took place on 30 June 1862. A party of six made it: Edmund von Fellenberg and Abraham Roth, together with Johann Bischoff, Kaspar Blatter, Christian Lauener and Gilgian Reichen. Fellenberg, a Bernese geologist and mountaineer, was among the leading figures of early alpine climbing in the region.

How hard is the climb?

This is an objective for experienced mountaineers, not a walk. The classic normal route starts at the Doldenhornhütte (1,915 m), a hut of the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC). The SAC route portal grades it PD (I), with roughly 1,730 m of ascent and 5 to 6 hours going up. The glacier sets the difficulty: the line changes with conditions, and a large crevasse near 3,400 m is the crux. You need crampons, an ice axe and a rope, plus the skill to move roped on glaciated slopes of up to about 45 degrees. Other routes, including those from the Fründenhütte (2,562 m) above Lake Oeschinen, are mainly for climbers.

How do you reach the Doldenhornhütte?

A good, varied mountain path leads from Kandersteg to the hut in about 2.5 to 3 hours. The hike itself needs no climbing gear. It brings you close to the glacier and the Doldenhorn's flanks, so it works well as a goal in its own right if you are not planning the summit.

When should you go?

On foot, the season generally runs from June to October. In spring, from March to May, the mountain is also climbed on ski tours, and trip reports describe excellent conditions in early May. Check the forecast and the state of the glacier before you set out, since both decide whether the ascent is safe.

What else is nearby?

Kandersteg is the base for the whole area. Beside the peak itself, the main sight is Lake Oeschinen at the foot of the Blüemlisalp massif, ringed by the Doldenhorn, Fründenhorn and Oeschinenhorn. Trails of every difficulty run around it, from lakeside strolls to hut approaches.

Frequently asked questions

How high is the Doldenhorn?

3,638 m above sea level, in the Bernese Alps of Switzerland.

Can you climb it without a guide?

The normal route is graded PD and crosses a crevassed glacier. It calls for proper equipment and experience in roped travel; without them, hire a mountain guide.

Where is the best place to see it?

From Lake Oeschinen, above which the peak rises on the north side, and from the path from Kandersteg to the Doldenhornhütte.

When is the best time to climb?

On foot usually June to October, and on ski tours in spring, March to May, depending on snow and weather.

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