Aletschhorn

Aletschhorn (4,193 m) is a glaciated summit in the Swiss canton of Valais, rising above the municipality of Naters. It is the second-highest peak of the Bernese Alps after the Finsteraarhorn and stands inside the Jungfrau-Aletsch area, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001. The climb is reserved for experienced mountaineers, yet the mountain is easy to admire from walking trails.

Where is the Aletschhorn and what surrounds it?

The peak lies roughly 10 km south of the Eiger. The Aletsch Glacier, the longest in the Alps, passes along its north side, the Oberaletsch Glacier lies to the southwest, and the Mittelaletsch Glacier to the south. The mountain takes its name from the ice at its foot. It is a broad, heavily glaciated massif more than a sharp spire.

Who made the first ascent?

The English climber Francis Fox Tuckett reached the top on 18 June 1859 with the guides J. J. Bennen, Peter Bohren and V. Tairraz. They bivouacked among rocks above the Mittelaletsch Glacier, then followed a snow ridge from the Dreieckhorn to the summit.

How do you climb it?

Only attempt it with glacier experience, ideally with a mountain guide. The usual summer line follows the southwest ridge from the Oberaletschhütte (2,640 m). You reach the hut from the top station of the Blatten–Belalp cable car; the walk takes 4 to 4.5 hours with about 800 m of ascent and includes a secured section. From the hut you descend onto the glacier, and the summit day typically runs 12 to 14 hours round trip.

Other bases include the Hollandiahütte (3,240 m, mostly useful for the northwest ridge), the Konkordiahütten, the Mönchsjochhütte and the Mittelaletsch bivouac. The Swiss Alpine Club advises against the approach over the Grosser Aletschgletscher via Inners Aletschi, which it now considers very dangerous.

What can you see without climbing?

You do not need ropes to enjoy the view. Belalp, reached by cable car from Blatten near Naters, is the start of trails along the glacier, including the Aletschbordweg. The hike to the Oberaletschhütte brings you close to the Oberaletsch Glacier and its surrounding peaks, in a valley that feels quieter than the busy Aletsch area.

When should you go?

Climbing season runs through summer, roughly July to September, when huts are staffed and glacier conditions are most favorable. Hiking trails from Belalp open in the same window. Check cable car hours and hut information before you travel.

Frequently asked questions

How tall is the Aletschhorn? It stands at 4,193 m (some sources give 4,194 m), making it the second-highest peak in the Bernese Alps.

Can I climb it without a guide? The route crosses glaciers and crevasse fields, so rope skills and glacier navigation are essential. Most climbers hire a certified guide.

Where do I start? The most common approach begins at Belalp, reached by cable car from Blatten near Naters, and continues on foot to the Oberaletschhütte.

Is the area protected? Yes. The mountain lies within the Jungfrau-Aletsch-Bietschhorn region, listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site since 2001.