Le Portalet

Le Portalet is a 3,344 m peak in the Mont Blanc massif, in the commune of Orsières in the Swiss canton of Valais. It stands on the ridge between the Trient and Saleina glaciers, west of the village of Praz de Fort, within the Aiguilles Dorées group. This is serious high-mountain terrain meant for climbers and alpinists, not casual walkers.

Where is Le Portalet?

The massif rises above the Val Ferret, between two large glaciers: the Saleina valley lies to the east and the Trient glacier to the west. The nearest village is Praz de Fort, while Champex, set beside its mountain lake, is the larger resort nearby. The whole area belongs to Orsières.

What makes it special?

Le Portalet has two notable subsidiary summits, the Grand Clocher du Portalet and the Petit Clocher du Portalet. The smaller one forms a slender needle and is known as particularly hard to climb. Its steep granite southeast face is a regional classic, with a route graded around 6a obligatory that draws teams from across the Alps. On the north face, newer and well-bolted lines such as "Au fil du temps" (2008) have been added.

How do you reach the area?

No waymarked hiking trail leads to the summit. The approaches end at the huts:

• From Champex: the La Breya chairlift takes you to a ridge at 2,188 m. A good path then leads to the Cabane d'Orny in about 2 hours 15 minutes. From the hut, crossing the Orny glacier brings you to the foot of the Petit Clocher's north face in around 45 minutes.
• From Praz de Fort: the better choice for a round trip. Park in the forest behind the village, on the small road toward the Saleina water intake. A T4-graded trail climbs to the Cabane de Saleinaz (2,691 m), roughly 1,530 m of ascent and about 4.5 hours.

The Orny hut is open year-round and staffed in summer, from about mid-June to late September.

When should you go?

Climbing and glacier travel are best in summer, when the huts are staffed. Glacier conditions change from week to week, so check your plan with a mountain guide or the hut warden. In winter the area sees ski tourers, but it demands avalanche experience.

Frequently asked questions

Is there a hiking trail to Le Portalet?

No. Climbing here requires alpine equipment and experience. Walking approaches end at the Orny and Saleinaz huts.

What is the shortest way to the Orny hut?

Start in Champex: take the La Breya chairlift, then walk about 2 hours 15 minutes.

Where do I park?

In the forest behind Praz de Fort, on the small road toward the Saleina water intake. From Champex, use the chairlift instead.

Can I stay overnight nearby?

Yes. The Cabane d'Orny and Cabane de Saleinaz operate in the area, and valley accommodation is available in Champex and Orsières.