Aiguille d'Argentière

Aiguille d'Argentière is a glaciated peak of roughly 3,900 m in the Mont Blanc massif, straddling the French–Swiss border between the Chamonix valley (Haute-Savoie) and Valais. It is not the village or the glacier of the same name, though both lie below it. For most visitors it is a dramatic skyline seen from the valley; for experienced alpinists it is a classic high-mountain objective.

Where is it and what does it look like?

The needle belongs to the Argentière group, close to the Aiguille du Chardonnet and Aiguille d'Orny. On its north-east side lies the Saleina glacier, about 6 km long, and on the south-west the narrow Glacier du Milieu. A prominent rock tower, the Flèche Rousse, forms the second summit to the south-east of the main top. Published heights vary between 3,898 and 3,902 m, with 3,901 m the most common figure.

How do you get to the base?

Most parties start from the Refuge d'Argentière (2,771 m), on the right bank of the Argentière glacier below the Jardin ridge. It is reached from Argentière village in the Chamonix valley, usually with the Grands Montets cable car for part of the climb. The hut belongs to the French Alpine Club, sleeps about 140 in dormitories and is staffed from mid-March to early September.

What is the climb like?

The normal route leaves the hut and follows the Glacier du Milieu up the west-south-west flank. The Swiss Alpine Club grades it PD+, with 4–5 hours and about 1,140 m of ascent. Expect crampons, ice axe, rope and crevasse-rescue skills. The classic north face has lost much of its snow and ice in recent years, so it is mostly tackled in winter and spring when cover is reliable. The Flèche Rousse ridge is a harder alternative. Without experience, hire a mountain guide.

A short history

The first ascent was made on 15 July 1864 by Edward Whymper and A. Reilly with guides Michel Croz, M. Payot and H. Charlet, via the west flank and north-west ridge. Whymper and Croz made three first ascents within a single week, a highlight of the Golden Age of alpinism.

When should you go?

Summer, from July to September, offers a staffed hut and the most stable weather, though crevasses are most exposed then. Winter and spring bring ski tourers and parties heading for the north faces. Start before dawn and check a mountain-specific forecast.

Frequently asked questions

Is the peak in France or Switzerland? Both: it sits on the border, with Haute-Savoie on one side and Valais on the other.

Can I climb it without a guide? Only with solid glacier experience. The normal route is PD+ and crosses crevassed terrain.

How long is the climb from the hut? About 4–5 hours up, then the same route down.

Is it the same as the Argentière glacier? No. The village and glacier share the name, but the peak is a separate summit.