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About this place
Aiguille Purtscheller is a granite spire of roughly 3,475 m on the France–Switzerland border, in the Mont Blanc massif. Published heights range from 3,474 to 3,478 m, so guidebooks differ slightly. It stands between the Col du Tour and the Aiguille du Tour, above the Trient glacier basin.
Where is Aiguille Purtscheller?
The peak rises on the frontier ridge, between the Trient glacier basin (Valais, Switzerland) and the Tour glacier basin (Chamonix side, France). The Col Purtscheller, at about 3,383 m, divides it from the neighbouring Aiguille du Tour. Together with the Aiguille du Pissoir (about 3,440 m) it forms one of the satellite summits of the Aiguille du Tour group. This is an objective for mountaineers with glacier experience, not a hillwalk.
Who was it named after?
The Austrian climber Ludwig Purtscheller made the first ascent alone on 17 June 1890. The summit received its name only in 1912.
How do you climb it?
The most used approach starts at the Swiss Cabane du Trient (3,170 m). The Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) describes crossing the Plateau du Trient to the Col Purtscheller, then following the north-east flank to the top. The grade is PD, I, with roughly 2.5 to 3 hours and about 367 m of ascent.
The classic rock line is the south ridge. The west face has seen large rockfalls over the years, so older routes there are no longer dependable.
How do you get down?
An equipped abseil line runs down the north-east side: two 30 m rappels, with a third needed when the snow beneath has turned icy.
When should you go?
The season runs from June to September, and ascents have been recorded as early as mid-June. Glacier conditions change through the summer, so check hut reports and the forecast before setting out. Parties normally leave early in the morning.
What gear do you need?
The route crosses a glacier, so bring a harness, rope, crampons, ice axe and helmet. Rappelling calls for a rope and anchor material. If you lack glacier experience, hire a mountain guide.
Frequently asked questions
How high is Aiguille Purtscheller? About 3,475 m. Sources list anything from 3,474 to 3,478 m.
Which country is it in? It sits on the border between France and Switzerland, in the Mont Blanc massif.
Is the normal route technically hard? From the Cabane du Trient it is graded PD, I. It still involves glacier travel and abseiling.
Where is the best starting point? The Swiss Cabane du Trient, at 3,170 m.
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