Krčmar

Krčmar is a 773-metre hill overlooking Smiljan in the Lika region, within the municipality of Gospić — the very village best known as the birthplace of Nikola Tesla. It's a modest but clearly shaped summit on the western edge of the Lika field, popular with locals and visitors looking for an easy hike with a rewarding view.

How do you get to Krčmar?

The most convenient starting point is the Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel in Smiljan, where parking is available. From there, a marked forest path and a maintained macadam road climb to the summit, passing fourteen Stations of the Cross along the way. The ascent takes roughly 30 minutes and the descent about 20, so the whole outing fits comfortably into an hour and a half.

Alternative approaches start from the hamlet of Miškulini (around 50 minutes) and from a former hunting lodge near Pavelići (around 40 minutes); both routes merge partway up the slope. The trail is easy to moderate and well signposted, suitable for families as well as anyone after a short, brisk workout.

What will you see at the summit?

At the top, a cross and inscriptions in both Glagolitic and Latin script are carved into the exposed rock — a trace of the region's older religious traditions. A metal marker embedded in the stone identifies Krčmar as a checkpoint of the Croatian Mountain Trail (Hrvatsko planinarsko obilježje), serving as a substitute stop whenever the neighbouring peak of Oštri Medvjeđak is temporarily closed.

From the flat rocky platform the view opens up across almost the entire Lika field, taking in the rooftops of Smiljan and Gospić, with the Velebit range, and the peaks of Kremen, Zir and Dinara visible on the horizon. It's one of the best vantage points around Gospić, especially at sunset.

Two wooden shelters with benches and restrooms are placed along the trail and near the top, giving hikers a place to rest before heading back down.

In 2021, a bust of "Vila Velebita" (the Fairy of Velebit), a figure from local folklore, was unveiled and blessed on Krčmar. The ceremony took place on 16 July, the feast day of Our Lady of Mount Carmel — patron saint of the Smiljan parish — with Mass led by the Bishop of Gospić-Senj, Zdenko Kržić, as part of the multi-day parish festivities.

When should you visit?

Spring and autumn offer the best hiking conditions and the clearest air, which usually means the sharpest views of Velebit and Dinara. In summer, an early morning or late afternoon start is advisable, since the exposed, stony road can get hot. In winter the path can turn icy, so sturdy footwear is a must.

A trip up Krčmar pairs naturally with a visit to Smiljan itself — Nikola Tesla's family home, now a restored house and memorial centre dedicated to the inventor, sits just below the hill.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to climb Krčmar? From the parking area by the church in Smiljan, the climb takes about 30 minutes and the descent roughly 20 minutes.

Is the trail suitable for children? Yes, it's an easy-to-moderate, well-marked path suitable for families, though the upper section is steep and rocky.

What can you see from the top? A panorama of the entire Lika field with Smiljan and Gospić below, and, on clear days, the Velebit range along with the peaks of Kremen, Zir and Dinara.

Are there any facilities on site? Yes — two wooden shelters with benches and restrooms are located along the trail and at the summit, and parking is available by the church in Smiljan.