About this place
The Grgur Ninski statue in Split is one of the city's best-known monuments. The bronze figure by sculptor Ivan Meštrović stands right outside the Golden Gate (Zlatna vrata), the northern entrance to Diocletian's Palace. With its pedestal it measures about 8.5 metres, so it is hard to miss as you approach the old town walls.
Who was Gregory of Nin?
Grgur Ninski, or Bishop Gregory of Nin, was an early medieval churchman who is now regarded in Croatia as a national hero. He championed the use of the Slavic language in worship. At the time the Church accepted only Latin for Mass and official business, and Gregory argued that people should hear the liturgy in a language they understood. For that reason Croats link him with the roots of their language and literacy, and he is often described as one of its "fathers".
Who made the statue?
The sculptor is Ivan Meštrović, Croatia's most celebrated sculptor of the twentieth century. The monument ranks among his most famous public works. The bishop towers over passers-by, which suits the stature he holds in national memory.
Why did the statue move?
Sources differ on some dates, but a common story emerges. The statue was first placed inside the palace, on the Peristyle. During the Italian occupation of Split in the Second World War it was taken down and stored away. It returned to public view only in the mid-1950s, when it was re-erected at its present spot outside the Golden Gate. Accounts of the casts also vary: some say Meštrović made several versions, with others in Nin and Varaždin, so treat those details with caution.
Why do visitors rub the toe?
The main draw is the bishop's left big toe. Local custom says rubbing it brings good luck, and some guides add that it ensures you will return to Split. Countless hands have polished the bronze there to a bright shine, in contrast with the darker rest of the figure. A small queue of people waiting for a photo is common.
Visiting tips
- Where: at the Golden Gate, on the northern edge of Diocletian's Palace in central Split.
- Access: the statue stands in a public space and can be viewed at any hour.
- Nearby: just beyond the gate lies the maze of palace streets, with the Peristyle and the cathedral close by.
- When: early morning is quietest, before tour groups arrive.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the Grgur Ninski statue in Split? Directly outside the Golden Gate, the northern entrance to Diocletian's Palace.
Who sculpted it? Ivan Meštrović, the Croatian sculptor.
How tall is it? About 8.5 metres including the pedestal.
Why do people touch the toe? By local tradition it brings good luck and a return to the city.
Is there an entrance fee? No, it stands in an open city space.
The statue makes a fine first stop on a walk through Split, combining art, the history of the Croatian language and a lively local tradition, plus a great spot for a souvenir photo.
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