Ermita de Santa María de la Blanca

Ermita de Santa María de la Blanca is a small chapel in Rubalcaba, a neighborhood of Liérganes in Cantabria, standing right across from the old manor house of the Mier y Torre family. It's easy to drive past on the main road through the Miera valley, but it's worth seeking out — it shows a quieter, older side of Liérganes than the town's better-known spa-resort core.

How do you get there?

Liérganes sits in the Miera valley, roughly 20 minutes by car from Santander, and is well connected by road and by a local train line ending at Liérganes station. From the town center, Rubalcaba is a short walk or a brief drive along a local road — the same area where the 16th-century Palacio de Mier y Torre stands. The chapel sits directly beside that manor house, so once you reach the palace you'll spot it immediately without needing to hunt for a trailhead or hidden lane.

What will you see?

The chapel was built in the 18th century on the initiative of Francisco de Mier y Torre, a captain general of New Spain, with a practical purpose: to let the residents of Rubalcaba attend mass through the winter without making the harder trek to the parish church. The building was placed next to a water source, a detail recorded on a Latin inscription set into the wall — "IVXTA AQVAM EXALTATA ECLESIA" — pointing to the nearby water and the raising of the church.

The construction history runs deeper than that single founding date. Work on the structure as it stands probably began around 1690, the epistle-side chapel was added in 1706, and the facade — the most recognizable part, in Baroque style — was completed in 1739. The core walls are masonry, while the facade, pilasters, entablatures and interior arches are cut ashlar stone, creating a clear visual contrast between rough wall and finely worked stone.

Inside, the vaulting is worth a closer look: the Gospel-side chapel and the transept carry Gothic ribbed vaults, while the nave and choir share a plastered barrel vault with lunettes — an unusual mix of styles for a rural chapel this size. The walls are whitewashed except for the exposed ashlar, and the vault still bears a polychrome litany painted in honor of the Virgin, a decorative detail that sets this chapel apart from other village hermitages in the area.

When should you visit?

There are no fixed visiting hours for tourists — this is still an active place of worship tied to the Rubalcaba community, so the most reliable way to see it is from the outside, as part of a relaxed walk through the neighborhood, at any time of year. Spring and early autumn work well for pairing a stop here with a visit to Liérganes itself — its old bridge, colorful riverside facades, and the walking and cycling routes that run through Rubalcaba toward the surrounding hills.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you go inside the chapel? The building remains a working place of worship linked to the local community, so interior access is generally limited to mass times or occasional openings. The facade and surroundings can be viewed at any time.

Why was the chapel built in this exact spot? Its founder, Francisco de Mier y Torre, wanted the people of Rubalcaba to be able to attend mass in winter without the long walk to the parish church. It was sited next to a water source, a fact recorded in the wall inscription.

How long does a visit take? The chapel itself is small — walking around it and taking in the facade takes just a few minutes, but it pairs well with a longer stroll around Rubalcaba and the adjacent Palacio de Mier y Torre.

Is it worth combining with a visit to Liérganes? Yes — the town center is only a few minutes away and offers more to see, including a historic bridge, a riverside promenade along the Miera, and the spa-town architecture Liérganes is known for.