Church of Santa Cruz, Cuenca

Iglesia de Santa Cruz is a former parish church in the historic centre of Cuenca, in Spain's Castilla-La Mancha region — one of the city's oldest parishes, now repurposed as a contemporary art space. Its Renaissance facade and austere stone body make it a worthwhile stop for visitors exploring Cuenca's old town beyond the postcard-famous hanging houses.

Where does this church come from?

The building started out as one of the first parishes of medieval Cuenca, at a time when the city was still shaping its urban layout around the cathedral and its defensive walls. The original structure was modest: a single nave built of rubble masonry and covered with a timber roof, matching the resources and needs of the community at the time. This plain, functional style was typical of the parishes founded in the city after it was retaken from Muslim rule in the 12th century.

How did the building change over the centuries?

The first major overhaul came in the mid-16th century, when master builder Juanes de Mendizábal the Elder began reworking the church. The decisive push for modernisation, though, came from Bishop Fresneda, who in 1568 commissioned architect Francisco de Goycoa to carry out a thorough remodelling of the old temple — this is when the building took on a form much closer to what stands today. A second major intervention followed around the mid-18th century: in 1756, work was carried out by José Martín de Aldehuela, one of the leading Spanish architects of the era, together with master stonemason Manuel de Santa María. Between them, they gave the church its final structural shape and much of its decoration.

What will you see inside?

The interior is a single hall-nave, divided into six bays by wall-attached pilasters and closed off by a polygonal apse. The overall style is sober and restrained, in clear contrast with the imposing Renaissance facade that draws the eye from the street outside. Since 2020, the former church has housed the Roberto Polo Collection, a branch of the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art of Castilla-La Mancha. Historic stone walls now sit side by side with contemporary paintings and installations, creating an unusual pairing of old religious architecture and present-day art.

How do you get there and when should you go?

The building sits inside Cuenca's old town, within walking distance of the cathedral and the Casas Colgadas, so it fits naturally into a walking route through the historic centre. Cuenca is a small but distinctly hilly city, so comfortable shoes are worth packing, since its lanes climb and drop steeply. Spring and early autumn are the best times to visit, when temperatures are milder than in summer and lighter crowds make it easier to take in both the church interior and the surrounding old town at a relaxed pace.

Frequently asked questions

Is entry free? The building now operates as the museum space of the Roberto Polo Collection, so visiting the interior usually requires an admission ticket under that institution's rules.

How long does a visit take? Seeing the building itself, along with the contemporary art on display, typically takes 30–45 minutes, depending on how much time you spend with the collection.

Is it still an active church? No — the building no longer serves a religious function and has operated as an art museum since 2020, while keeping its original architecture and facade intact.

What else is worth seeing nearby? Within a few minutes' walk you'll find Cuenca Cathedral, the famous Casas Colgadas, and the old town's network of narrow streets, several of which offer views over the Huécar gorge.