Casa da Encomenda

Casa da Encomenda is a historic complex in Quiroga, in Galicia, tied to a former commandery of the Knights Hospitaller. What survives today is mainly the Pazo da Encomenda — a 19th-century manor house built on the site of the older headquarters — together with a neighboring church ensemble in the parish of San Salvador do Hospital, known locally as O Hospital de Quiroga.

How do you get there?

The site sits roughly 2 km from central Quiroga, in Lugo province, close to the Camino de Invierno, the winter branch of the Camino de Santiago that let medieval pilgrims skirt the snowbound passes of the main French route. A car is the most practical option, following the local road into the Hospital parish; the surroundings are rural with little tourist infrastructure, so it pays to plan the route in advance. Quiroga itself connects by road to Lugo and Ourense, making it a convenient base for exploring the Sil river valley.

What will you see?

The name Casa da Encomenda refers to the original cluster of buildings that, from the Middle Ages onward, served as the seat of a commandery (encomienda) held by the Knights Hospitaller, also known as the Order of Malta. The commandery's archive was kept here until 1752, stored in a cabinet with eighteen drawers, one for each district under the order's jurisdiction in the region. The original building itself no longer stands. After the church-property confiscations of 1835 (the Mendizábal disentailment), the estate passed into private hands, and in 1843 the Flórez de Losada family rebuilt it as the Pazo da Encomenda — a substantial manor whose façade, facing the steps up to the church, still displays a quartered stone coat of arms. The building now belongs to the Taboada Varela family.

The ensemble rewards a slower look around. Next to the pazo stands the parish church of San Salvador do Hospital, which keeps Romanesque features — three naves divided by round arches — plus a rectangular pre-Romanesque chapel dedicated to San Xoán. The site's history goes back to 1275, when a hospice known as the "Casa Santa" was founded here by the Knights Hospitaller to shelter pilgrims crossing the valley on their way to Santiago de Compostela. Nearby stands the Casa da Torre, also called Casa de Tor, an 18th-century three-story tower bearing two noble coats of arms, a roadside stone cross (cruceiro) on a circular base, and the 19th-century Casa de Carballedo, inscribed with "Sin Dios todo es vanidad" ("Without God, all is vanity").

Worth knowing before you go: parts of the ensemble show visible wear, and local residents have long flagged the need for restoration work. Visiting here feels more like tracing historical traces than touring a polished attraction.

When should you visit?

Spring and autumn bring the mildest temperatures to the Sil valley and show the landscape at its best. Summers can turn hot, and winter travel along the Camino de Invierno can be harder going because of weather, though the area itself stays reachable by car year-round.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between Casa da Encomenda and Pazo da Encomenda? Casa da Encomenda was the name of the original medieval commandery complex, which no longer exists. Pazo da Encomenda is the 19th-century manor built on the same site after 1843, and it's what visitors can see today.

Who ran this site historically? The commandery was administered by the Knights Hospitaller, also known as the Order of Malta, until the 19th-century confiscation of church property ended their control.

Can you go inside the pazo? The building remains private property, owned by the Taboada Varela family, so visits are generally limited to viewing it from outside and walking through the surrounding historic ensemble.

What else is worth seeing nearby? The Romanesque-influenced church of San Salvador do Hospital, the 18th-century Casa da Torre tower, and a roadside cruceiro are all within a few hundred meters of the pazo.