Capela do Rato

Capela do Rato is a small chapel in Lisbon on the Largo do Rato square, next to Rato metro station. For visitors it is a quiet stop between the neighbourhood's busy streets; for the Portuguese it is a place that matters in the story of opposition to the dictatorship.

How did the chapel come about?

The chapel was built in 1839 by the Marquis of Viana as a private chapel for the palace of the Marquises of Praia. The architect was Manuel Joaquim de Sousa. It was first dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Bonança and later became known as the chapel of Nossa Senhora da Conceição. The decorative plasterwork inside dates from 1864 and was made by Rodrigues Pita, a detail worth noticing if you get to step inside.

After the death of the Countess of Cuba, Maria Francisca Borges de Medeiros Dias da Câmara, daughter of the Marquises of Praia and Monforte, the chapel was donated to the Patriarchate of Lisbon. Since then it has served as a church chapel rather than a private one.

Why is it so well known? The 1972 vigil

Its greatest historical significance comes from the end of 1972. On 30 December, Portuguese Catholics held a vigil in the chapel (the Vigília da Capela do Rato) in protest against the colonial war and the Estado Novo regime. The next day riot police entered the building and detained about 50 people. The event became one of the symbols of Catholic opposition to the dictatorship, less than two years before the Carnation Revolution of 1974.

The Community of Capela do Rato, which had organised the vigil, was honoured on 14 December 2022 with the rank of Honorary Member of the Order of Freedom.

What to know before you go

• Location: Largo do Rato is a large, busy junction on the edge of Príncipe Real, Campo de Ourique and Amoreiras. You can reach it by metro (Rato station, yellow line), tram or bus.
• What to expect: this is a modest chapel, not a major attraction with queues. A visit takes a few minutes and works best as part of a walk around the area.
• Who it suits: anyone interested in recent Portuguese history, nineteenth-century architecture and places tied to the country's road to democracy.

Frequently asked questions

Who built Capela do Rato? The Marquis of Viana built it in 1839 as a private chapel for the palace of the Marquises of Praia; the architect was Manuel Joaquim de Sousa.

What happened here in 1972? On 30 December 1972 Catholics held a vigil against the colonial war and the dictatorship. The following day police entered the chapel and detained about 50 people.

How do I get there? The simplest way is the metro to Rato station. The chapel stands right on Largo do Rato.

Is it still a private chapel? No. It was once private, but it now belongs to the Patriarchate of Lisbon after being donated following the death of the Countess of Cuba.

Is it worth stopping by? Yes, if twentieth-century Portuguese history interests you. It is a short stop, but one with real weight in local historical memory, and it fits neatly into a walk through Lisbon together with the nearby gardens and streets of Príncipe Real.