Antonio Zozaya

Antonio Zozaya is a modest memorial plaque in Madrid – a stone tablet with a bronze relief portrait of a Spanish journalist, set into the facade of a building on Plaza del General Vara de Rey, right in the heart of the Embajadores district.

Who was Antonio Zozaya?

Antonio Zozaya y You (Madrid, 1859 – Mexico, 1943) was a Spanish journalist, jurist and writer. He published his columns mainly in the Madrid newspapers "El Liberal" and "La Libertad", and in politics he was one of the founders of the Izquierda Republicana party. He was a well-regarded figure in Madrid's literary and journalistic circles in the first half of the 20th century, and his death in exile in Mexico reflects the fate shared by many Spanish republicans after the Civil War.

Where exactly is it?

The plaque sits on the facade of building number 14 on today's Plaza del General Vara de Rey, a small square next to the famous El Rastro flea market, in the Embajadores neighbourhood of central Madrid (Centro district). The history of the square is more interesting than the plaque itself: it was originally known as Cerrillo del Rastro, then renamed Plaza de Antonio Zozaya in 1929 in his honour. The name didn't last – in 1941, under very different political circumstances, the square was given its current name, honouring General Vara de Rey. The plaque with Zozaya's portrait, however, remained in place and still marks the square's earlier namesake.

What will you see?

The memorial itself is understated: a stone slab with a bronze relief profile of Zozaya. It was made by Santiago Rodríguez Bonome, then a young Galician sculptor (1901–1995), who took on the commission for free – the cost of materials was covered by a public subscription organised by Madrid's literary community in 1927. That same initiative led to the square being renamed after Zozaya two years later. It's worth noting the setting: just a short walk away lies El Rastro, Madrid's oldest and largest flea market, running every Sunday and public holiday since medieval times.

How do you get there?

Plaza del General Vara de Rey is within easy walking distance of La Latina and Puerta de Toledo metro stations (both on line 5), just a few minutes on foot from either. The Embajadores district is also well served by city buses running along Ronda de Toledo and Calle de Toledo. Given the narrow, historic streets in the area, walking is by far the most practical way to get around – it's also the usual way visitors explore El Rastro and its surroundings.

When should you visit?

The plaque can be seen year-round, at any hour – it's part of a building facade, freely accessible with no restrictions. The best time to combine a visit is a Sunday morning stroll through the El Rastro market (running from morning until early afternoon), when the whole neighbourhood is at its liveliest. On weekdays the square is much quieter, which makes it easier to take a closer look at the plaque itself.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is there an entrance fee? No. The plaque is on the facade of a building facing a public square and can be viewed free of charge at any time.

Why doesn't the square carry Zozaya's name anymore? The square was renamed in his honour in 1929, but in 1941, in a very different political climate, it was given its current name, Plaza del General Vara de Rey. The memorial plaque itself, however, has survived on the facade to this day.

Is it worth combining with a visit to El Rastro market? Yes, that's the best approach – the market is literally a few steps away and runs every Sunday and public holiday, making it easy to fold a look at the plaque into a wider stroll through Embajadores.

How long does a visit take? It's a small memorial, so viewing the plaque itself takes just a few minutes, but it's worth lingering to take in the history of the square and the neighbouring flea market.