Abbaye d'Ulmet

Abbaye d'Ulmet is a vanished Cistercian abbey whose remains lie deep inside the Camargue Nature Reserve, roughly 25 km from Arles. There are no walls left to walk through, but the story behind this abandoned monastic site — and the guided visit that occasionally opens it up — makes it a worthwhile stop for anyone exploring the history and wetlands of the Camargue.

Where exactly is the abbey located?

The site sits in the Camargue, near the Fournelet pond and what was once a branch of the Rhône called the Rhône d'Ulmet, now completely silted up and dry. Its coordinates are 43.4656° N, 4.6347° E. The whole area falls within the Camargue National Nature Reserve, managed by the SNPN (Société Nationale de Protection de la Nature).

How was the abbey founded?

The abbey was established in 1173. The site was chosen by Amédée d'Auterives, and the first monks built their monastery on the grounds of an older chapel, granted to them as a fief by abbess Jourdane of the abbey of Saint-Césaire in Arles. The community quickly gained the backing of the powerful Baux family, who held vast estates across the Camargue — Bertran I of Baux exempted the abbey from property transfer fees starting in 1177.

Why did the monks eventually leave?

The location turned out to be poorly suited for permanent settlement. As the Rhône d'Ulmet silted up, the community lost access to fresh water, and despite continuing donations, the monks were forced to relocate. The move to Sylvéréal took place in the second half of the 13th century, most likely between 1251 and 1270. By 1299, the abbey at Sylvéréal — now home to the former Ulmet community — had been affiliated with the abbeys of Psalmodie and Valmagne.

What happened to the buildings afterward?

Ulmet was not abandoned all at once. A small group of monks stayed on site until the 15th century, maintaining religious observance and tending a "farot," a signal fire for boats navigating the old Rhône branch. The site was finally abandoned in 1437. In the 17th century, stones from the abbey church were reused to build the nearby mas d'Amphise and to reinforce the dike around the Fournelet pond — which is why no masonry survives at the site today.

What is there to see on site now?

What remains is a low mound and a patch of distinctive vegetation, mostly thistles, marking the spot where a monastery stood more than 800 years ago. The land lies within a protected nature reserve and is closed to casual visitors. Once a year, the SNPN runs a guided tour by reservation — the only legal way to see the site up close.

Frequently asked questions

Can visitors explore the Abbaye d'Ulmet on their own? No. The site lies inside the Camargue Nature Reserve and is closed to everyday visits. Access is only possible through the annual guided tour organized by the SNPN, which requires advance booking.

Are any abbey buildings still standing? No. Stones from the abbey church were repurposed in the 17th century to build the mas d'Amphise and reinforce a nearby dike. Today only a small mound and telltale vegetation mark the former site.

Which religious order ran the abbey? Ulmet was a Cistercian abbey, founded in 1173.

Why did the monks move to Sylvéréal? Because the Rhône d'Ulmet, their source of fresh water, gradually silted up, making the site unsustainable for permanent settlement.