Vieux Phare des Baleines

Vieux Phare des Baleines rises on the Pointe des Baleines in Saint-Clément-des-Baleines, at the western tip of Île de Ré, within the Le Gillieux area. It is the older of two lighthouses standing on this headland — a former watchtower that guided ships for well over a century and a half, and today works as a viewpoint and small history exhibit rather than an active aid to navigation.

When and why was the old tower built?

The project began under Colbert, minister to Louis XIV, who in 1669 ordered a lighthouse-tower raised on the Baleines point. Construction followed the plans of engineer Augier and was completed in 1682. Its purpose was twofold: to steer ships away from the dangerous rocks offshore and to protect access to the naval port of Rochefort, one of France's key Atlantic bases. From 1682 the tower operated as a navigational light and a watch post over passing maritime traffic, remaining in service for well over a hundred years.

Where does the name "Baleines" come from?

The headland has carried this name for centuries because whales and sperm whales repeatedly beached along this stretch of coast, which is exposed to strong Atlantic currents. The phenomenon happened often enough that "Baleines" (whales) stuck — first to the point itself, then to the lighthouses built on it.

Why was a new lighthouse built right next to it?

In the 19th century the old tower was fitted with parabolic reflectors in an attempt to extend its range, but this proved insufficient as shipping traffic grew and safety requirements tightened. Raising the existing structure was judged too costly, so a completely new lighthouse was commissioned instead — its lens apparatus was lit for the first time in 1854, alongside a third-order light on the Haut Banc du Nord. From that point the old tower lost its navigational role to the taller, modern Phare des Baleines that now stands beside it.

What does the old tower offer visitors today?

Retirement from active service did not mean the end of the old lighthouse's story. On June 22, 1904 it was listed as a monument historique, placing it under formal heritage protection in France. Also known locally as the Tour Vauban, the tower is open to visitors, who can climb to the top for views over the headland, the neighboring active lighthouse, and the open Atlantic. A small exhibition beside the tower covers the site's history — its construction, the shipwrecks that once plagued this coast, and the lighthouse's role in local maritime traffic. It ranks among the oldest surviving lighthouse towers in France, which alone makes it worth a stop for anyone interested in maritime heritage.

How do you get there?

The Pointe des Baleines sits at the very tip of Île de Ré, reached by bridge from the mainland. From the center of Saint-Clément-des-Baleines, a short drive or a walking and cycling path along the dunes leads straight to the site, which most visitors combine with a stop at the newer, still-active Phare des Baleines standing next door.

Frequently asked questions

Is the Vieux Phare des Baleines still an active lighthouse? No. It stopped guiding ships after 1854, when a taller replacement lighthouse was lit right beside it. Today the old tower is a heritage site open to visitors rather than a working aid to navigation.

Why is it called "Baleines"? Because whales and sperm whales regularly beached on this stretch of the Île de Ré coastline for centuries — the name stuck to the headland and to both lighthouses built on it.

Can you climb the old tower? Yes, it is open to the public and leads to a viewing point overlooking the headland, the ocean, and the newer lighthouse next door.

Is the old lighthouse a protected monument? Yes, it was listed as a monument historique on June 22, 1904, making it one of France's protected pieces of maritime heritage.