Théâtre du Jeu de Paume

Théâtre du Jeu de Paume is one of the oldest working theatres in Aix-en-Provence, built on the site of a former royal "jeu de paume" court — the French forerunner of tennis where, according to local tradition, Louis XIV once played in 1660.

How did the theatre come to be built?

Construction began in 1756 to plans drawn up by the Marquis de la Barben, at the time the city's consul and an amateur architect. Local craftsmen pooled their own money to buy the sports court and convert it into a stage for the city. The building opened to the public in 1787, though its interior remained bare, with no decoration at all. The city of Aix-en-Provence took formal ownership of the theatre in 1829.

How has the interior changed over the centuries?

The biggest 19th-century overhaul came between 1886 and 1888, when the back wall of the stage was moved to add roughly 200 seats, alongside work on the façade and the boxes. The theatre's signature elliptical ceiling, painted with a "Genius of Music" scene in a Renaissance-and-Rococo pastiche style, dates from 1887. Further updates followed through the 20th century: new seating in 1953, a redone façade in 1960, and a reworked stage area in 1978. The most thorough renovation, however, came at the very end of the century — the city closed the theatre for two full seasons starting in 1998, moving performances to the Salle du Bois de l'Aune, before reopening the restored Théâtre du Jeu de Paume in May 2000 with a new stage curtain designed by painter Gérard Traquandi.

What makes this theatre unusual?

Along with the theatre in Bordeaux, the Jeu de Paume is one of only two 18th-century Italian-style theatres still standing in France. That style — a horseshoe-shaped auditorium ringed with tiers of boxes facing the stage — was the European standard during the Enlightenment, but very few examples survive with their original shape intact. The venue still operates as a working municipal stage, today part of the Les Théâtres network in Aix-en-Provence alongside the Grand Théâtre de Provence, hosting drama, dance, and music as part of the city's cultural season.

How do you get there, and when should you visit?

The theatre sits in the historic centre of Aix-en-Provence, close to the old town's other landmarks, so a visit fits naturally into a walk through the surrounding streets. Because it functions as an active performance venue rather than a museum, the best way to experience it is to catch an evening show from the current programme — tickets and the season schedule are published by the Les Théâtres network. It's worth checking the listings before arriving, since the building isn't open for daytime sightseeing outside of scheduled events.

Frequently asked questions

When was the Théâtre du Jeu de Paume built? Construction started in 1756, and the theatre opened to the public in 1787.

Why is it called "Jeu de Paume"? It was built on the site of a former jeu de paume court, the French sport that preceded tennis, tied to a local tradition about Louis XIV playing there in 1660.

Is the interior original to the 18th century? Only partly — the building itself dates from 1756–1787, but the interior decoration, including the "Genius of Music" ceiling, was added during the 1887 renovation, and the theatre underwent a full modernisation between 1998 and 2000.

What can visitors see there today? It's a working municipal stage within the Les Théâtres network, presenting theatre, dance, and music — not a museum open for daytime visits.