Stiff lighthouse

Phare du Stiff is the oldest working lighthouse in Brittany, standing on the eastern tip of the island of Ushant (Ouessant) off the coast of Finistère, France. Unlike the postcard-famous Créac'h lighthouse on the other side of the island, Stiff is a plain, stone structure with military origins — less photogenic, but older and steeped in maritime history.

How do you get there?

Ushant sits at the very tip of Brittany and can only be reached by ferry, usually departing from Le Conquet or Brest, with more frequent crossings in summer. Once you land at the port of Lampaul, the lighthouse is a few kilometres away — the easiest way to cover the distance is by bicycle (rentals are available on the island) or the local bus that loops around Ushant. Walking along the cliff paths is another option if you have time to spare; the coastal scenery makes the effort worthwhile. Because the lighthouse sits on the eastern headland, the route from the port crosses the island's interior, past its typical stone cottages and sheep pastures.

What will you see there?

Phare du Stiff has an unusual design: it's actually two connected towers — one houses the light and its mechanism, the other contains the staircase. This layout dates back to the late 17th century, commissioned under Vauban, the famous military engineer of Louis XIV responsible for France's coastal fortification system. The lighthouse has been in continuous service since 1700, making it the oldest still-operating lighthouse in all of Brittany.

The tower stands 33 metres tall, and 104 winding steps lead to the top. The climb is rewarded with a sweeping view over the open Atlantic, the rocky islets nearby, and, on a clear day, the outline of mainland Brittany's coast. The lighthouse was electrified in 1957 and today runs fully automated, monitored remotely from the Créac'h lighthouse on the opposite side of the island, with no permanent keeper on site.

Its light signature — two red flashes every 20 seconds, visible up to 24 nautical miles — has for centuries warned sailors approaching from the open sea or along northern Finistère of the treacherous currents and rocks surrounding Ushant, waters that have long carried a fearsome reputation among mariners.

When should you visit?

The lighthouse is open to visitors mainly during French school holiday periods, when you can go inside and climb to the top. Outside those windows, you can still admire it from the outside, which is rewarding enough given its dramatic clifftop setting. Spring and summer offer the best conditions, with a lower chance of the strong winds and fog that can suddenly cut visibility on Ushant. Ferry schedules can shift with the weather, so if you're planning a day trip, it's worth building in some buffer time.

Frequently asked questions

Is Phare du Stiff the same lighthouse as Créac'h? No — they are two separate structures on the same island. Créac'h, recognisable by its black-and-white stripes, stands on the western tip of Ushant and is the larger, more visited of the two. Stiff, older and built of plain stone, sits on the eastern headland and is now monitored remotely from Créac'h.

How old is the Stiff lighthouse? It has operated continuously since 1700, making it the oldest working lighthouse in Brittany. The design dates to the late 17th century, commissioned by Vauban, the military engineer of King Louis XIV.

Can you climb to the top of the lighthouse? Yes, during opening periods (mainly school holidays) visitors can climb the 104 steps to the upper gallery for panoramic views of the Atlantic and the surrounding rocks.

How do you get to Ushant? The only way is by ferry from Le Conquet or Brest. Once on the island, a bicycle or the local bus is the best way to get around — the lighthouse is a few kilometres from the port of Lampaul, where ferries dock.