Smoo Cave

Smoo Cave sits beside the village of Durness on Scotland's far north coast, in Sutherland, Highland. Right on the North Coast 500 and part of the North West Highlands Geopark, it is a cave shaped by two forces: the sea carved the outer chamber, while an underground stream hollowed out the inner ones.

What will you see at Smoo Cave?

The entrance alone is worth the stop. The opening is roughly 15 m high and wider than it is tall, so daylight reaches deep inside. There are three chambers. The first and largest is open to everyone all year, and the other two can only be reached on a guided boat trip.

Inside, the Allt Smoo stream drops about 20 m as a waterfall. The water enters through a hole in the roof, and after leaving the cave it runs out to the sea inlet you can see from the path. The rock is dolomite and limestone of the Durness Group, laid down in the Early Ordovician. As the surrounding rock dissolved, nodules of chert were left standing in the inner chambers.

What is the history of the cave?

Excavations found a prehistoric midden here, and radiocarbon dates from Smoo Cave and nearby Glassknapper's Cave suggest activity between the 8th and 11th centuries AD. Sir Walter Scott visited in 1814 and wrote about it in his travel notes. The name's origin is disputed: one theory points to an Old Norse word for a narrow cleft, another to a Gaelic term for fine spray.

How do you visit, and when should you go?

A short walk from the car park follows the stream, with steps and a wooden walkway leading to the cave. Entry to the first chamber is free, and the cave is accessible at any hour. Boat trips into the inner chambers run seasonally, roughly April to October, during daylight. The operator cancels them when water levels are too high, for example after heavy rain or in strong south-westerly winds. They cannot be booked far ahead, so check current times and prices locally. The waterfall is most dramatic after rain, but the ground can be wet and slippery, so wear shoes with good grip.

Frequently asked questions

Is Smoo Cave free to enter?

Yes. Entering the first chamber costs nothing. You pay only for the boat trip to the inner chambers.

Is there a waterfall inside?

Yes. The Allt Smoo stream falls about 20 m inside the cave, and its force depends on recent rainfall.

Do the boat trips run all year?

No. They operate seasonally, from spring to autumn, and only when water conditions allow. In winter you can still visit the main chamber.

How long should I allow?

About an hour covers the walk and the main chamber. Add half an hour or more if you take the boat trip.