Santa Maria dels Masos

Santa Maria dels Masos is a small chapel in the municipality of Torroella de Montgrí, in the Baix Empordà region of Catalonia. Also known as Santa Maria del Mar, and referred to in historical records as Santa Maria de Càrcer, it stands beside a farmhouse (masia) that today sits within a campsite complex at the foot of the Torre Moratxa and Tossal Gros hills.

Where exactly is it?

The chapel belongs to a scattered band of rural farmsteads, the masos, spread between Torroella de Montgrí and l'Estartit — a stretch of Empordà farmland framed by low hills visible from the road connecting the two towns. Its location next to a campsite makes it easy to reach for visitors staying on the Costa Brava coast in summer, even though the building itself keeps the feel of an isolated, rural shrine rather than a roadside attraction.

What is the history behind it?

Its documented history goes back to the 9th century, with mentions in royal charters from 844, 860 and 922. Early records — one from 899 ("sa net us Petrus de Carce re") and another from 1187 ("sancti Petri et sancta Mariae de Carcere") — show that the original church carried a double dedication, to Saint Peter and to Mary. The property belonged to the monastery of Sant Medir, the predecessor of the abbey of Santa Maria d'Amer, and was one of several holdings the Amer monks kept in Baix Empordà. In 1094 the estate grew further with the purchase of an adjoining plot to the east. By the mid-14th century the site had already been reduced to a simple chapel with a benefice rather than an independent parish.

What will you actually see?

The building standing today — the chapel together with its attached farmhouse — dates from the 16th or 17th century and preserves no visible traces of the earlier medieval structure. Despite its modest scale, it is listed in Catalonia's Inventory of Architectural Heritage, a recognition of its value as a marker of centuries of farming settlement in this part of Empordà. This is a contemplative stop rather than a monumental one: its interest lies in the depth of its documented past, not in architectural grandeur.

When is the best time to visit?

The standout date is September 8th, the feast of the Nativity of Mary, when the Festa dels Masos de Torroella de Montgrí i l'Estartit takes place — also called the Festa de Santa Maria dels Masos. The program includes a mass, a concert with sardana dancing (Catalonia's traditional circle dance), and a communal meal shared among residents of the surrounding farmsteads. The festival honors Mary as patron of the masos, the region's dispersed farmhouses, and is one of the rare occasions when this usually quiet spot fills with people. On any other day, the chapel remains a peaceful stop along walking and cycling routes around Torroella de Montgrí — a fitting complement to a day at the beaches of l'Estartit or a visit to the medieval old town itself.

Frequently asked questions

Is Santa Maria dels Masos an active parish church? No. Since the mid-14th century it has functioned as a chapel with a benefice rather than a standalone parish. In its earlier medieval life it was dedicated jointly to Saint Peter and Mary.

Where does the name "dels Masos" come from? It refers to the masos, the traditional Catalan farmsteads scattered around the chapel. The site is also known as Santa Maria del Mar, and historically as Santa Maria de Càrcer.

Can you visit the chapel year-round? The chapel sits next to a campsite, so access can depend on the site's seasonal opening. The most authentic time to visit is September 8th, during the annual Festa dels Masos.

How do you get there? The chapel lies between Torroella de Montgrí and l'Estartit, at the foot of Torre Moratxa and Tossal Gros. It's most easily reached by car or bicycle from either town via the local farm roads.