Santa Maria de Sales, Viladecans

Santa Maria de Sales is the parish church of Viladecans, a town in the Baix Llobregat region just southwest of Barcelona. The current building dates from 1967 and stands out as one of the more unusual examples of brutalist architecture near the Catalan capital — a sharp contrast to the medieval tradition its name and dedication actually come from.

Where does the church's name come from?

The dedication to Santa Maria de Sales predates the building you see today by centuries. Nearby stands a historic hermitage carrying the same name, first documented in 1141 in a donation made by Guillem de Santa Oliva and his wife Estefania. When the modern parish church was built in the 20th century, it inherited this medieval dedication, linking the town's rural religious past with its growing urban present.

Who designed the building?

The church was designed by Robert Kramreiter, a Viennese architect influenced by Le Corbusier who was forced into exile by Nazi persecution. Kramreiter died before construction was finished, and the project was completed by municipal architect Pere Marieges Carbó. The result is a raw concrete structure with the geometric simplicity and unadorned surfaces typical of postwar brutalism, quite unlike the older stone churches found elsewhere in Catalonia.

What can you see inside and outside?

The church's most recognizable feature is its expressionist bell tower, standing 22.3 meters tall — a slender concrete form that stands out against the surrounding streets and works as a local landmark. Since the 1980s, the tower has housed four bells, each given its own name: Martina, Maria de Sales, Rosa, and Mercedes.

Inside, the stained-glass windows by Llucià Navarro are worth a close look. They bring color and filtered light into the otherwise austere concrete interior, softening the heaviness of the brutalist structure. This contrast between raw concrete and colored glass gives the church its particular atmosphere, characteristic of postwar parish churches built on the edges of expanding towns.

How do you get there and when should you visit?

The church sits within Viladecans itself, a town well connected to Barcelona by car, local train, or bus. Since it is an active parish, it's best to plan a visit outside Mass times to explore the interior and architecture freely. A sunny day is also recommended, as it shows off Navarro's stained glass at its best.

Santa Maria de Sales makes a rewarding stop for anyone interested in 20th-century architecture rather than only classic religious monuments — a rare regional example of brutalism grafted onto a dedication rooted in the Middle Ages.

Frequently asked questions

Is Santa Maria de Sales open to visitors? Yes, it functions as an active parish church. Visits are possible outside Mass hours, though it's worth checking local opening times before going.

Who designed the building? It was designed by Viennese architect Robert Kramreiter and completed after his death by municipal architect Pere Marieges Carbó.

Where does the church's name come from? It takes its name from the nearby historic hermitage of Santa Maria de Sales, first recorded in a document from 1141.

What is the church's main highlight? The 22.3-meter expressionist bell tower with its four named bells, along with the stained-glass windows by Llucià Navarro inside.