Santa Margarida de Vilarnau

Santa Margarida de Vilarnau is a small hermitage chapel and historic hamlet sitting about 1.2 km from the center of Palafrugell, in the Baix Empordà region (Girona, Catalonia). Perched on top of a low hill, it has been a local landmark since medieval times — the chapel honors the town's patron saint and once anchored a cluster of five farmhouses known collectively as the Vilarnau hamlet.

Where does the name Vilarnau come from?

The name Vilarnau shows up in written records as early as 1121, in the will of the clergyman Berenguer Amat. That single mention tells us the settlement here predates the chapel's current form by centuries, and that the area was already organized around working farmsteads in the 12th century. The chapel is also known under a second name, Sant Ponç de Vilarnau, a sign that devotion at this spot shifted between patrons over the centuries.

What will you actually see?

The building is a patchwork of different eras. Behind the apse, pre-Romanesque traces survive, and the north wall dates to the 10th century. The barrel-vaulted nave is 11th-century Romanesque — the oldest, most coherent part of the structure. Later additions from the 16th and 18th centuries brought the façade, a bell gable (espadanya), and a porch at the entrance, giving the chapel the more layered look it has today.

The site's history hasn't been peaceful. In 1936, during the Spanish Civil War, the chapel was set on fire, destroying its altarpiece and the rest of the interior furnishings for good. Decades later, a 1970s restoration became its own point of controversy: even though old stone was reused, the work is widely regarded as having disfigured the chapel's original character rather than preserving it.

One practical detail matters for visitors: the chapel is usually kept locked. The key is held at the nearby Can Borrull farmhouse, also known as "Castell de Santa Margarida" or Can Vehí — a common arrangement for rural Catalan chapels, where access depends on whoever is looking after the building that day.

When should you go?

The best time to feel the local character of the place is July 20th, when Palafrugell holds the Festa del veïnat de Santa Margarida, a neighborhood festival tied to the patron saint. It's the one day the hamlet comes alive with tradition rather than just standing as a quiet piece of architecture.

Outside that date, this is a low-key, contemplative spot rather than a heavily touristed one — better suited to a calm morning or late-afternoon walk than a packed midday visit.

How do you get there?

Santa Margarida de Vilarnau sits close enough to Palafrugell — roughly 1.2 km — that walking or cycling along the local country lanes up the hill is the most practical option. It makes an easy, short add-on to a visit to Palafrugell itself, rather than a destination requiring its own trip.

Frequently asked questions

Can you go inside the chapel? The door is usually locked, with the key kept at the nearby Can Borrull farmhouse (Castell de Santa Margarida / Can Vehí). It's worth checking access before planning a visit around the interior.

How old is the chapel? The oldest parts — the north wall and pre-Romanesque remains behind the apse — date to the 10th century, with the barrel-vaulted nave added in the 11th century. The façade, bell gable, and porch came later, in the 16th and 18th centuries.

Why is it also called Sant Ponç de Vilarnau? The site historically carried devotion to more than one patron, which is why both names appear in documents and local tradition.

Is there a festival held here? Yes — on July 20th, Palafrugell celebrates the Festa del veïnat de Santa Margarida, a local festival honoring the town's patron saint.